Montcalm - Djinns

Adjacent Areas
< Le Far - West  |  Montcalm - Sector Jésus >

Sport
Sun and Shade
Uphill
12 mins
Seepage
Sheltered

The arrival point at the crag is at the toe of the broad buttress of Djinns (Genies). To the left are some fine slabby routes and to the right some steep intense face climbs and withering cracks. The crag suffers from seepage after rain, goes into the shade in the afternoon and has shade in the trees in hot weather Guidebook page 188.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Timber
The left-most line to a ledge with a lower-off.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
5
2
Rapido
From the red name, climb to a shared lower-off.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
5+
3
Ben bagara
Nice slab climbing (high-ish first clip) trending left to a lower-off and with a short second pitch (4+) if required.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a
4
Allo
Tough moves past the third bolt are the spice, the rest is 6a.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
6b+
5
Djinns
The slabby classic of the sector, just left of the arete. Climb up to the prominent flake and on up the rib. Pull over the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
6a
6
Qui va à la chasse
The broad rib gives and intense pitch.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
6c+
7
Rif direct
Climb out of the low recess.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b+
8
Rif en stock
Start up the right-hand edge of a recess (tiny plaque) and trend left.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
9
Voleur de rêve
The groove and bulges are challenging. There is a second pitch at 6a.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
10
Ein dulfer
Climb the long crack right of the ivy by laybacking, or whatever else works for you. The bolts are spaced enough to help you...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
11
Rambo two
The steep face via a thin crack to a hard finale.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
12
Get ready
From the name, head up the face finishing up the searing thin crack. Holds on the next route are too tempting at times.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
13
Magie noire
The most obvious line gives a great pitch. Thin crimps lead to a continuous finger-crack.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
14
Esprit chagrin
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c+
15
La vieille phobie du képi
A desperate outing up the right-hand edge of the wall.
 
2 Stars
Technical
8a
16
Yo sé mi tic
The long curving overlap is supposed to be an aid route, though it appears to have been bolted as a free climb.
 
1 Stars
A2
  • Latest Comments

    For AUZAT

    Les dieux d'amour
    "Excellent. 5b move early on, then a lot of 5.6 slab padding." 17/Jun top50

    Djinns
    "Really excellent, long and sustained, great rock and the crux right at the top." 24/Apr

    L'eliminateur
    "Direct is about 7a" 06/Apr

    Bidibulle
    "Has new start down and right adding a few metres on." 20/Dec

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