Amphitheatre Ledge

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
25 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Tidal

Amphitheatre Ledge is a quiet and secluded area that deserves more traffic. The climbing is invariably steep with good rock, but the finishes require caution and sometimes need a pre-placed belay rope. Some of the routes are awkward to approach.
Tides - The area is generally non-tidal, although some of the starts are much easier to reach at low tide. Keep away in rough conditions.
Approach (routes 1 to 5, and 10) - Abseil from two stakes above The Amphitheatre on its east side (left - looking out). The abseil ends on a ledge system that leads along the base of the cliff.
Approach (routes 6 to 9) - Abseil from a stake, below a thorn bush, to the left of a hollow (looking out). This is 30m left of the Amphitheatre. Leave the abseil rope in place as a belay point at the top of the routes. Take prusik loops down in case of problems. Routes 6 and 7 can be reached by a sea-level traverse at low tide (Diff).

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Varina
A pleasant, though serious, route up the arete of The Amphitheatre, finishing up a short groove. Sparse protection from small...
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
HS
2
Uncry These Tears
A strong line up the face right of Varina. Climb to an overlap (small thread) then onwards to a larger overlap. Pass this on...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2
3
Atomic Road Hero
Climb straight up an easy lower wall and attack the technical and intricate face above (3 threads, 1 peg) to a large undercut....
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5
4
Theory of Everything
This is the central line and has the most sustained climbing. Start 3m right of the last route and ascend the easy lower wall...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5
5
Zoolookologie
A full-body work-out with reasonable gear. Start easily as for Theory of Everything then take the big cracks to the right up...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5
6
In a Big Sky
Start from a large sloping ledge, at a flake, 15m right of the big leaning wall. Move straight up to follow thin cracks past 5...
 E2
7
Land of the Leaning
1) -, 8m. Start as for In a Big Sky. Climb the flake then move right easily for 3m to a ledge above the zawn. Thread and nut...
 
1 Stars
E2
8
World in Action
A peach of a climb. It needs a direct abseil approach to reach a small isolated ledge at the fault-line 5m above the sea, 5m...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5
9
Arapiles Syndrome
Reminiscent of Ocean Boulevard. Abseil directly, from the stake, to a ledge beneath a diagonal crack, 5m right of World in...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3
10
Mr Ruckle
A fine, mid-height traverse of this exciting area all the way from Varina to finish right of Arapiles Syndrome. It can be done...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E1