Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
Uphill
8 minsTo the right of the arrival point at the crag is a steep wall with a fine selection of climbs a grade or two harder than those on the left-hand side of the cliff. This wall can be slow to dry after rain. Away to the right, and just before the huge pipes, is a shorter wall with a popular set of easier routes. Guidebook page 206.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Dure limite Climb fierce slate-like finger-cracks, then move left to access an easy groove, see-through arete and roof. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b |
2 |
Cartes sur tables Lovely moves up the blunt arete of the grotty groove. | 2 Stars | 6a |
3 |
Péchiney mon amour The face has tricky moves on side-pulls and a long reach. | 2 Stars Reachy | 6b |
4 |
Péchonnez mon amour Steady climbing leads to a taxing crack and a thin finale. Hard. | 2 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
5 |
Fantasme du lézard Desperate thin wall-climbing from the very first move. | 2 Stars Technical | 7c+ |
6 |
Extra ball A fine climb with a dyno at half-height. | 3 Stars Technical | 6c |
7 |
Prélude à l'envol Sustained climbing leads to a ledge where hard moves are needed to reach the lower-off. | 3 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
8 |
Reality chaud Connect the cracks by some good moves to finish at the lower-off on Kalachnikov love. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
9 |
Kalachnikov love A fine varied wall climb. Trend leftward to the overlap, pull over and follow thin cracks to the top. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
10 |
Sauvagine Sustained climbing with crimpy moves round the roof. | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy Rounded | 6c |
11 |
Makosa Climb the crack and groove to hard moves out left. | 2 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
12 |
Mister milli and Mr Gé Climb the stepped corners and steep crack. | 2 Stars | 6c |
13 |
Salambo Up the wall via a layback crack and a tricky roof high up. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
14 |
Le sceptre et le sort Climb the front of the flake then the wall above. Passing the roof is fingery. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6c |
15 |
Jolie Môme Start up behind the flake to reach the crack. Exit left from this then finish up the ramp above. Varied and sustained. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6a |
16 |
See you later The left-hand side of the tower is tough. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a+ |
17 |
Super bellalete The fierce thin crack, | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
18 |
Pim The groove is pleasant when dry. Exit left for the best finish. | 1 Stars | 4+ |
19 |
Pam The face just right of the arete has thin moves at half-height. | 1 Stars Technical | 5+ |
20 |
Poum Climb the pleasant centre of the face. Easier than Pam. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 5+ |
21 |
A bac AB From the left weave away to ledges on the right, then back left by a mildly bold swing then exit on the right. | 1 Stars | 4+ |
22 |
A bac AB direct The direct version has a reachy move and a rounded exit. | 1 Stars Reachy Rounded | 5+ |