Do Not Disturb

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
20 mins
Up and Down
Seepage
Sheltered

The sector furthest from the normal parking place has some great routes on lovely sculpted rock in a quiet and sunny setting. The routes are generally steep and in the middle and upper grades, but they are well bolted throughout. Many have their names painted at the base.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Toit ABC
Start in the pit at the left-hand end of the ledge and power leftwards through the stacked overhangs. After a butch start it...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
2
Tiens, voilà du bourin
From the left end of the ledge, head up into the hanging groove then up the wall. Shares some moves with Un toit pour tous.
 
1 Stars
6c
3
Un toit pour tous
Just left of the stuck-on concrete holds, power through the overhangs to a ragged crack above. A very tough start.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
7a
4
Vice prisé
Use the large stuck-on holds to gain the wall above the roof, then head up this on more normal holds.
 7a
5
Vérin ironique
Starting at a hole in the ledge, pull through the right-hand side of the roof using the horn and climb the fine face above.
 
2 Stars
6c+
6
Le tartier vertical
A classic struggle out of the prominent wide crack, festooned with old threads.
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
6b+
7
Pas vue, pas prise Top 50
The tough pocketed wall is sustained and sequency.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b
8
Ensof le bas rouge
Start as for Do Not Disturb, but climb direct.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c
9
Do Not Disturb
1) 6a+, 2) 6a+. Two fine pitches, starting at the foot of the right-leaning runnel and following it on large but unhelpful...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
6a+
10
Dangerous
Above the narrowest point of the ledge (drilled thread belay) climb the wall rightwards. Tricky first clip.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c
11
I don't know
There is a bolt belay at the start 3m along the ledge. It is hard if you go direct and easier to slink right at the crux.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
12
Ce tyran nommé désir
From the right end of the ledge, climb the steep wall and jutting rib feature above on big but hard-to-use holds. Slippery.
 
2 Stars
Rounded
6c+
13
Zodiacal
Use the same start as Ce tyran nommé désir but trend right for good climbing up the crack to a hard move over the small roof....
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
14
Aux frontières du réel
1) 6a, 2) 5+. A great climb with two excellent pitches on good rock, following the major chimney/groove to a stance. Finish up...
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
6a
15
Plaisir solitaire
The leaning rib on the left-hand side of the cave is steep and awkward, on big slippery holds. There is a hard move early on,...
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Graunchy
6c
16
Kalimouxo
Steep and slippery climbing to a hard move at the lip. Beware of loose rock.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
Loose
6c
17
Tabata cash
Climb the open chimney and follow the bolts into the blackness.
 
1 Stars
Technical
5c
18
Un coup d'encens
The short-lived slab trending rightwards to the roof.
 
1 Stars
4c
19
Requin qu'essence
1) 5+, 2) 5+. The ramp at the right edge of the cave leads to the wall above, and a belay ledge a bit higher. Continue up the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
5c
20
20 ans déjà
The pale rounded rib that bounds the right-hand side of the cliff leads to ledges. The lower-off is just a little higher.
 
1 Stars
5a