Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
20 minsSeepage
The sector furthest from the normal parking place has some great routes on lovely sculpted rock in a quiet and sunny setting. The routes are generally steep and in the middle and upper grades, but they are well bolted throughout. Many have their names painted at the base. Guidebook page 216.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Toit ABC Start in the pit at the left-hand end of the ledge and power leftwards through the stacked overhangs. After a butch start it... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7b+ |
2 |
Tiens, voilà du bourin From the left end of the ledge, head up into the hanging groove then up the wall. Shares some moves with Un toit pour tous. | 1 Stars | 6c |
3 |
Un toit pour tous Just left of the stuck-on concrete holds, power through the overhangs to a ragged crack above. A very tough start. | 1 Stars Graunchy | 7a |
4 |
Vice prisé Use the large stuck-on holds to gain the wall above the roof, then head up this on more normal holds. | 7a | |
5 |
Vérin ironique Starting at a hole in the ledge, pull through the right-hand side of the roof using the horn and climb the fine face above. | 2 Stars | 6c+ |
6 |
Le tartier vertical A classic struggle out of the prominent wide crack, festooned with old threads. | 2 Stars Graunchy | 6b+ |
7 |
Pas vue, pas prise Top 50 The tough pocketed wall is sustained and sequency. | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 7b |
8 |
Ensof le bas rouge Start as for Do Not Disturb, but climb direct. | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6c |
9 |
Do Not Disturb Top 50 1) 6a+, 2) 6a+. Two fine pitches, starting at the foot of the right-leaning runnel and following it on large but unhelpful... | 3 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | 6a+ |
10 |
Dangerous Above the narrowest point of the ledge (drilled thread belay) climb the wall rightwards. Tricky first clip. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6c |
11 |
I don't know There is a bolt belay at the start 3m along the ledge. It is hard if you go direct and easier to slink right at the crux. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a |
12 |
Ce tyran nommé désir From the right end of the ledge, climb the steep wall and jutting rib feature above on big but hard-to-use holds. Slippery. | 2 Stars Rounded | 6c+ |
13 |
Zodiacal Use the same start as Ce tyran nommé désir but trend right for good climbing up the crack to a hard move over the small roof.... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
14 |
Aux frontières du réel 1) 6a, 2) 5+. A great climb with two excellent pitches on good rock, following the major chimney/groove to a stance. Finish up... | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | 6a |
15 |
Plaisir solitaire The leaning rib on the left-hand side of the cave is steep and awkward, on big slippery holds. There is a hard move early on,... | 2 Stars Rounded Graunchy | 6c |
16 |
Kalimouxo Steep and slippery climbing to a hard move at the lip. Beware of loose rock. | 1 Stars Pumpy Graunchy Loose | 6c |
17 |
Tabata cash Climb the open chimney and follow the bolts into the blackness. | 1 Stars Technical | 5+ |
18 |
Un coup d'encens The short-lived slab trending rightwards to the roof. | 1 Stars | 4+ |
19 |
Requin qu'essence 1) 5+, 2) 5+. The ramp at the right edge of the cave leads to the wall above, and a belay ledge a bit higher. Continue up the... | 1 Stars Technical | 5+ |
20 |
20 ans déjà The pale rounded rib that bounds the right-hand side of the cliff leads to ledges. The lower-off is just a little higher. | 1 Stars | 5 |