C'est à voir/La lame décollée

Adjacent Areas
< Mémorama  |  Minor Sectors >

Sport
Lots of sun!
18 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

A twin sector that is probably the most popular of the non-slabby areas. A fine selection of routes on of good, if rather steep, rock in an idyllic, sunny setting. Some of the routes are old and quite polished, especially the starts. Many of the belays are substantial cemented steel loops - please do not top-rope directly through these as this will rapidly wear them. Guidebook page 220.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Des rats peurs
Good climbing but watch out for loose rock at the top.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6a+
2
Raideurs indigestes
Thin at the start, then thin and urgent to finish.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c
3
A l'heure des frayeurs
A game of two halves, butch then technical.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
4
Toujours trop prêt?
Difficult-to-read moves out of the shallow cave. Could be 7a?
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
5
Les rois du yoyo
A bit snappy, could use more traffic.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b
6
Se acabo
An upper pitch after a start up Les rois du yoyo.
 7c
7
De kismoqueton
1) 6c, 2) 7b. Two pitches - one short, one long.
 
1 Stars
7b
8
Fantasy Top 50
1) 6b+, 2) 7a+. Excellent sequency climbing through steep holes is best done as one long pitch.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
9
C'est à voir Top 50
1) 7a+, 2) 6b+. A long, steep first pitch with technical bridging.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
10
La neuvième baffe
Good moves between rests to a high crux. Low in the grade.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
11
Au clair des allumettes
A bouldery start gains a cave, then tufas give a steep finish.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
12
Energiquement votre
1) 6b, 2) 6b+. So good it makes you want to climb it slowly. Can be done in one huge pitch.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
13
Songs of the wind
1) 6a+, 2) 7a+. Each pitch has a good crux but the rest is rather scrappy.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
14
4 pétards pour un bouddha
 
Reachy
6c+
15
Bloque ton bloc
 
1 Stars
5a
16
Bidibulle
 
1 Stars
6a+
17
Bétapi
A nice layback, gained direct (reachy) or from Bidibulle.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
18
A vous l'honneur
Sadly now quite polished. Keeping to the right-hand crack is 7b.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a+
19
A vous le passage qui assure
A hybrid which starts up 18, crosses 20 and finishes as for 21.
 
2 Stars
7a+
20
Passage à vide
Short but neat. Finishing up the next route is Le passage sûr,7b.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
8a
21
C'est sûr si t'assure c'est pas dur
A fine line with powerful climbing. Finishing up the previous route is Assure avant le dernier acte, 7c+.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7b
22
Redox
The long deep groove is an old classic starting at the arete.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a
23
Un autre monde
A bouldery start and good eliminate moves left of the groove.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
24
Le choix du roy
A forceful start leads to good climbing up the blocky groove.
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
5c
25
L'empire de Gratonnas
A second pitch to either of the previous routes has a hard move left to gain the final groove.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
26
Pet de zébu
Boulder out of the cave via a pocket then enjoy the technical wall on the right.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b
27
Taquet, taquet plus
 
Crimpy
7b+
28
Hein? con! hue!
Twisty-turny moves. Nice if you like that kind of thing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
29
Cinquième dimension
After the crux, it's hard to avoid reaching right.
 
Crimpy
7a
30
Au bord d'elle
Old-skool climbing, and much harder starting left of the arete.
 
1 Stars
6a+
31
Sida merdical
Sustained and reachy towards the top.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
6c
32
Attention estrong
Hard low down, and a brilliant steady route once on the flake.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b