Adjacent Areas
< Mémorama | Minor Sectors >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
18 minsA twin sector that is probably the most popular of the non-slabby areas. A fine selection of routes on of good, if rather steep, rock in an idyllic, sunny setting. Some of the routes are old and quite polished, especially the starts. Many of the belays are substantial cemented steel loops - please do not top-rope directly through these as this will rapidly wear them. Guidebook page 220.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Des rats peurs Good climbing but watch out for loose rock at the top. | 1 Stars Pumpy Loose | 6a+ |
2 |
Raideurs indigestes Thin at the start, then thin and urgent to finish. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6c |
3 |
A l'heure des frayeurs A game of two halves, butch then technical. | 2 Stars Technical | 7a |
4 |
Toujours trop prêt? Difficult-to-read moves out of the shallow cave. Could be 7a? | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6c+ |
5 |
Les rois du yoyo A bit snappy, could use more traffic. | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 7b |
6 |
Se acabo An upper pitch after a start up Les rois du yoyo. | 7c | |
7 |
De kismoqueton 1) 6c, 2) 7b. Two pitches - one short, one long. | 1 Stars | 7b |
8 |
Fantasy Top 50 1) 6b+, 2) 7a+. Excellent sequency climbing through steep holes is best done as one long pitch. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
9 |
C'est à voir Top 50 1) 7a+, 2) 6b+. A long, steep first pitch with technical bridging. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
10 |
La neuvième baffe Good moves between rests to a high crux. Low in the grade. | 2 Stars Technical | 7b |
11 |
Au clair des allumettes A bouldery start gains a cave, then tufas give a steep finish. | 2 Stars Technical | 7b |
12 |
Energiquement votre 1) 6b, 2) 6b+. So good it makes you want to climb it slowly. Can be done in one huge pitch. | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b+ |
13 |
Songs of the wind 1) 6a+, 2) 7a+. Each pitch has a good crux but the rest is rather scrappy. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a+ |
14 |
4 pétards pour un bouddha | Reachy | 6c+ |
15 |
Bloque ton bloc | 1 Stars | 5 |
16 |
Bidibulle | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
17 |
Bétapi A nice layback, gained direct (reachy) or from Bidibulle. | 2 Stars Crimpy | 6a+ |
18 |
A vous l'honneur Sadly now quite polished. Keeping to the right-hand crack is 7b. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 7a+ |
19 |
A vous le passage qui assure A hybrid which starts up 18, crosses 20 and finishes as for 21. | 2 Stars | 7a+ |
20 |
Passage à vide Short but neat. Finishing up the next route is Le passage sûr,7b. | 1 Stars Crimpy | 8a |
21 |
C'est sûr si t'assure c'est pas dur A fine line with powerful climbing. Finishing up the previous route is Assure avant le dernier acte, 7c+. | 2 Stars Crimpy | 7b |
22 |
Redox The long deep groove is an old classic starting at the arete. | 2 Stars Crimpy | 6a |
23 |
Un autre monde A bouldery start and good eliminate moves left of the groove. | Technical Crimpy | 6b+ |
24 |
Le choix du roy A forceful start leads to good climbing up the blocky groove. | 2 Stars Graunchy | 5+ |
25 |
L'empire de Gratonnas A second pitch to either of the previous routes has a hard move left to gain the final groove. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
26 |
Pet de zébu Boulder out of the cave via a pocket then enjoy the technical wall on the right. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7b |
27 |
Taquet, taquet plus | Crimpy | 7b+ |
28 |
Hein? con! hue! Twisty-turny moves. Nice if you like that kind of thing. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a |
29 |
Cinquième dimension After the crux, it's hard to avoid reaching right. | Crimpy | 7a |
30 |
Au bord d'elle Old-skool climbing, and much harder starting left of the arete. | 1 Stars | 6a+ |
31 |
Sida merdical Sustained and reachy towards the top. | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy | 6c |
32 |
Attention estrong Hard low down, and a brilliant steady route once on the flake. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b |