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Sport

Lots of sun!

Up and Down

15 mins

The most popular section of the cliff with a fine array of off-vertical face climbs, generally on excellent rock. The easier routes can be polished, especially on the lower sections. Several of the routes are two pitches long. The addition of new bolts to the lowest section of many of the routes has eased the scary nature of the original 'gripper-clippers'. Many routes have a small metal plaque with name and grade stamped on to aid identification. Guidebook page 224.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Roc autopise Nice climbing up the groove system after a steep start.	2 Stars	6a
2	Fondu enchainé Only 6a once you are above the glossy start.	1 Stars	6a+
3	Haut les mains Another hard start past a floral hole then straight up the slab.	2 Stars	6b
4	Déoderanthrope The easiest route here. Quite polished, inevitably.	1 Stars	4+
5	Los bire fireal A fine long pitch that feels a bit bold and slippery in places.	2 Stars Rounded Fluttery	5+
6	Les souris ont la peau dure Keep left for the harder variation.	2 Stars	6b+
7	Les souris ont la peau tendre The easier, direct version is cruxy.	2 Stars	6a
8	J'ai peur des mouches A big pitch with a lot of excellent climbing.	3 Stars Pumpy	6a+
9	Engagement provisoire A fine pitch which may be split at half-height. The crux clip may be hard for short climbers.	2 Stars Technical	6c+
10	Variante a momo		6c
11	Chiche qu'on bulle A right-hand start to the previous line starts under a flake and moves out left to climb the black streak.	2 Stars Pumpy	6c
12	Je vous salue marie	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	6c+
13	Ton autre chemin 1) 6a+, 2) 6a+. Fine slab climbing on the first pitch to a chain in a cave. The second one is diagonal, and is hard to strip...	2 Stars	6a+
14	Premier de cordée Good climbing with tricky moves to the lower-off. Direct is 6a.	2 Stars	5+
15	Chevauchée fantastique An extension to the previous climb tackles a tricky traverse along the beckoning pockets to reach the crux.	2 Stars Pumpy	6b+
16	Légende de Tarzan Tackle the bulge linking the last two routes, in one 35m pitch.	2 Stars	6c
17	Cap'tain colla The steep line between the caves feels hard for the grade, until you find the holds.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	6c+
18	Lichen globe trotter 1) 5, 2) 5+. Two good pitches skirting the right edge of the right-hand cave then following the groove and wall above.	2 Stars Pumpy	5+
19	Action directe A desperate outing up the blank face. No name plate on this one but it starts 2m left of Pas du trou.	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	7b+
20	Pas du trou A hard start leads to sustained slab climbing on good rock.	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	6b
21	Esculape The easiest line here links the start of one route with the finish of another by a short leftwards diagonal.	2 Stars Technical Rounded	6a+
22	Flemme olympique This is the direct finish to the previous climb.	2 Stars Pumpy	6b+
23	Si c'est pas sûr Trend right though the bushes to access the clean slab.	1 Stars Technical	7a+
24	Chier i poil 1) 7a, 2) 6c+. Hard climbing up the smooth grey face leads to a long sustained pitch on the upper face.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7a
25	Le mur du vieux grimpeur 1) 5+, 2) 6a+. The rock looks suspect, but P1 is a fine long pitch. Continue up the steeper wall to the left after the stance.	3 Stars Pumpy	6a+
26	Cachous lajaunie 1) 7a, 2) 6a. Start by moving left through the flaky yellow overlap. Can be done in one long pitch.	Pumpy	7a
27	Septembre vert Use the same first bolt as the last climb, but go direct.	1 Stars	6a+
28	Salut les Mickeys Sustained juggy climbing up the flaky corner/groove.	2 Stars Pumpy	5+
29	Silicose man A technical start accesses the pleasant amble above.	1 Stars Technical	6a+
30	Le diédre du crâne 1) 4, 2) 5, 3) 5+. The fine long groove is a bit polished and can be slow to dry after rain. Abseil descent.	2 Stars Rounded	5+

La Grande Dalle

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