Roc des Abeilles Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
20 mins
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

A fine cliff in a lovely setting, though the shape of the crag and the angle of the walls makes it feel oddly like a quarry. The base of the crag might make a good picnic spot, but the approach is quite tricky for children. Guidebook page 48.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Corilis
Start by scrambling up the blocks at the left edge of the face, then climb the wall trending right and back left.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a+
2
Favelas
From the crest of the left-hand of two blocks, climb straight up the wall passing through a shallow niche at 5m.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
3
Manque de peau
From the right-hand block, climb the bulging wall following the grey streak throughout. It eases with height.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8b
4
Totem Zoulou
The first of the major crack-system gives good sustained work on solid jams, with an awkward move right at half-height.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
5
Anton
Link the start of Totem Zoulou with the upper section of Manque de peau.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
6
Un genre 7a+
Basically a hard left-hand finish to Totem Zoulou up the wall where the crack bears away to the right.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
7
Super Anton
A right-hand start to Anton ups the ante by a grade or so.
 
1 Stars
7c+
8
Bouzat connexion
Start up Super Anton, then climb short hard wall direct to rejoin the big crack. Finishing up Un genre 7a+ would appear logical...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
9
On a grimpé sur la lune
More quality crack-climbing, with good jamming and a fingery section towards the top.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
10
Lunatif
A short and very cruxy left-hand finish to the previous climb.
 
Technical
6c+
11
L'échappée belle
The longest pitch here and the only worthwhile easier route. Start up the left-hand side of the huge triangular flake and step...
 
2 Stars
5
12
Le temps de la reflexion Top 50
From the tip of the huge flake, climb the wall 2m right of the arete until it is possible to move left. Finish direct.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
13
Salut Patrick
Links the last route with the next.
 
2 Stars
Technical
8b
14
Salut Fred
Start just left of the next long crack and climb leftwards to access the centre of the wall.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8b+
15
Le blob
Another superb crack route, mega sustained but on good jams most of the way. When the crack splits, keep left.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
16
Mon maitre Yoda
The twisting crack system looks great but is very cruxy and, sadly, the key hold has been improved.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
17
L'instant bleu
Take the centre of the wall following a discontinuous crack with great difficulty.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a+
18
Un poco agitato
Makes the most of the right-hand side of the wall.
 
1 Stars
7c
19
Roc Around the Clog
An easier climb at last, up the chimney then a crack. Wriggle up the start then do some proper climbing.
 
Graunchy
6b
20
Bizarre bise hard
The zig-zagging crack-system.
 6b+
21
Coup de main
Nice jamming moves up the straight crack on the right.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
22
Histoire de bloc
 
Crimpy
7b+
23
Jésus Christ
 7b