Roc des Abeilles Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
20 mins
Up and Down
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

A fine cliff in a lovely setting, though the shape of the crag and the angle of the walls makes it feel oddly like a quarry. The base of the crag might make a good picnic spot, but the approach is quite tricky for children. Guidebook page 48.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Corilis
Start by scrambling up the blocks at the left edge of the face, then climb the wall trending right and back left.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a+
2
Favelas
From the crest of the left-hand of two blocks, climb straight up the wall passing through a shallow niche at 5m.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
3
Manque de peau
From the right-hand block, climb the bulging wall following the grey streak throughout. It eases with height.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8b
4
Totem Zoulou
The first of the major crack-system gives good sustained work on solid jams, with an awkward move right at half-height.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
5
Anton
Link the start of Totem Zoulou with the upper section of Manque de peau.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
6
Un genre 7a+
Basically a hard left-hand finish to Totem Zoulou up the wall where the crack bears away to the right.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
7
Super Anton
A right-hand start to Anton ups the ante by a grade or so.
 
1 Stars
7c+
8
Bouzat connexion
Start up Super Anton, then climb short hard wall direct to rejoin the big crack. Finishing up Un genre 7a+ would appear logical...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
9
On a grimpé sur la lune
More quality crack-climbing, with good jamming and a fingery section towards the top.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
10
Lunatif
A short and very cruxy left-hand finish to the previous climb.
 
Technical
6c+
11
L'échappée belle
The longest pitch here and the only worthwhile easier route. Start up the left-hand side of the huge triangular flake and step...
 
2 Stars
5a
12
Le temps de la reflexion
From the tip of the huge flake, climb the wall 2m right of the arete until it is possible to move left. Finish direct.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
13
Salut Patrick
Links the last route with the next.
 
2 Stars
Technical
8b
14
Salut Fred
Start just left of the next long crack and climb leftwards to access the centre of the wall.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8b+
15
Le blob
Another superb crack route, mega sustained but on good jams most of the way. When the crack splits, keep left.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
16
Mon maitre Yoda
The twisting crack system looks great but is very cruxy and, sadly, the key hold has been improved.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
17
L'instant bleu
Take the centre of the wall following a discontinuous crack with great difficulty.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a+
18
Un poco agitato
Makes the most of the right-hand side of the wall.
 
1 Stars
7c
19
Roc Around the Clog
An easier climb at last, up the chimney then a crack. Wriggle up the start then do some proper climbing.
 
Graunchy
6b
20
Bizarre bise hard
The zig-zagging crack-system.
 6b+
21
Coup de main
Nice jamming moves up the straight crack on the right.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
22
Histoire de bloc
 
Crimpy
7b+
23
Jésus Christ
 7b