Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
20 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
A fine cliff in a lovely setting, though the shape of the crag and the angle of the walls makes it feel oddly like a quarry. The base of the crag might make a good picnic spot, but the approach is quite tricky for children. Guidebook page 48.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Corilis Start by scrambling up the blocks at the left edge of the face, then climb the wall trending right and back left. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8a+ |
2 |
Favelas From the crest of the left-hand of two blocks, climb straight up the wall passing through a shallow niche at 5m. | 1 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
3 |
Manque de peau From the right-hand block, climb the bulging wall following the grey streak throughout. It eases with height. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8b |
4 |
Totem Zoulou The first of the major crack-system gives good sustained work on solid jams, with an awkward move right at half-height. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
5 |
Anton Link the start of Totem Zoulou with the upper section of Manque de peau. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c |
6 |
Un genre 7a+ Basically a hard left-hand finish to Totem Zoulou up the wall where the crack bears away to the right. | 1 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
7 |
Super Anton A right-hand start to Anton ups the ante by a grade or so. | 1 Stars | 7c+ |
8 |
Bouzat connexion Start up Super Anton, then climb short hard wall direct to rejoin the big crack. Finishing up Un genre 7a+ would appear logical... | 1 Stars Technical | 7c |
9 |
On a grimpé sur la lune More quality crack-climbing, with good jamming and a fingery section towards the top. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
10 |
Lunatif A short and very cruxy left-hand finish to the previous climb. | Technical | 6c+ |
11 |
L'échappée belle The longest pitch here and the only worthwhile easier route. Start up the left-hand side of the huge triangular flake and step... | 2 Stars | 5 |
12 |
Le temps de la reflexion From the tip of the huge flake, climb the wall 2m right of the arete until it is possible to move left. Finish direct. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
13 |
Salut Patrick Links the last route with the next. | 2 Stars Technical | 8b |
14 |
Salut Fred Start just left of the next long crack and climb leftwards to access the centre of the wall. | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8b+ |
15 |
Le blob Another superb crack route, mega sustained but on good jams most of the way. When the crack splits, keep left. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
16 |
Mon maitre Yoda The twisting crack system looks great but is very cruxy and, sadly, the key hold has been improved. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
17 |
L'instant bleu Take the centre of the wall following a discontinuous crack with great difficulty. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8a+ |
18 |
Un poco agitato Makes the most of the right-hand side of the wall. | 1 Stars | 7c |
19 |
Roc Around the Clog An easier climb at last, up the chimney then a crack. Wriggle up the start then do some proper climbing. | Graunchy | 6b |
20 |
Bizarre bise hard The zig-zagging crack-system. | 6b+ | |
21 |
Coup de main Nice jamming moves up the straight crack on the right. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
22 |
Histoire de bloc | Crimpy | 7b+ |
23 |
Jésus Christ | 7b | |