Main Crag

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun from mid-morning
5 mins
Uphill

The central section of the crag has some fine test-pieces across the grades, including a couple of multi-pitch classics that used to go to the summit, though that is not mandatory nowadays. Guidebook page 62.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mignon
The short flat grey wall on the left.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
2
Mignonnette
Flaky cracks on the right lead to the same lower-off.
 5a
3
Sucette à l'acide
A crack leads to the bulges and fierce wall beyond.
 
1 Stars
7b+
4
Poséidon
The grey and yellow wall left of the big rift gives a fine pitch.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
5
La sacado
The big chimney groove is adventurous, as is the blocking roof.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
5c
6
Snoopy Pète
From the groove, trend left up the wall through the notch and on up the face above - excellent. A teeny direct-start is harder.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
7
La restrouvada Top 50
The left-trending groove is easy, but a bit intimidating.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
4c
8
Nikita
Move out left at the third glue-in. Nice sustained climbing.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b
9
L'envie folle
Keep right, following the glue-ins throughout.
 
2 Stars
6a+
10
La dalle
1) 5+, 2) 6c. Start 1m left of the name. The first pitch is good but slippery, the second is superb and sustained, but quite a...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
11
Pepsi
There is an old bolt at the start. The pitch feels quite tricky and the bolting isn't really ideal.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
6a+
12
Le grand dièdre
1) 5+, 2) 6b. The other major line is the huge groove system. Again the first pitch is steady and the second is more...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6b
13
Bénénuts
Start up Fissure en demi-lune, but head out right to access the pillar and a lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
14
Nuts
Climb the thin technical crack (blue arrow) to join the previous route close to the top.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
15
Gédurdur
The big groove is a great line and a beefy challenge. The first clip is rather high.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Graunchy
6b
16
Le pilier rouge
Start as for the last route but head out right on the pillar which gives fine exposed moves.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
17
15 ans après
The direct start through the bulges is hard. High first clip.
 
1 Stars
7b
18
Sikadur pour prises mobiles
The last route from the ledge system climbs the fine pillar above. Care needed with the start.
 
2 Stars
7b
19
Pinocchio
A fine pitch, spoilt only by the overly-hard start. Follow the crack through the bulges, then trend left to access and climb...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
20
Pinocchio Right-hand
Starting up the next route evens out the difficulty. Superb.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
21
Gédovert
The steep orange groove is great.
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
5c
22
Pascalou
Up the right side of the pillar, then move left to join Gédovert.
 
Loose
5c
23
Costo Balèse
Start at a small black plaque with '6a+' scratched on it, and follow the bolts up the wall and through the bulges.
 
1 Stars
6a+