Southeast Face

Adjacent Areas
< Le pilier sud  |  East Face >

Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
40 mins

A superb face, up to 400m high, slabby in the lower section and steepening with height. All the routes described here are fully equipped. Guidebook page 277.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Canne de serin
1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 6a+, 4) 6a+. A steady couple of pitches lead to sterner stuff. The third pitch is sustained, and the hardest...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a+
2
Conflit de génération
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 6a, 4) 6a, 5) 5+. A good sustained route starting up the slab to the left of the Goulotte Ravier. Follow the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a
3
Rose
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+/A0, 4) 6a, 5) 5+, 6) 5+, 7) 5+, 8) 5+, 9) 5+. An excellent outing, mostly sustained around 5+ with the odd...
 
3 Stars
6a
4
L'ours en Peluche
1) 5+, 2) 5, 3) 5+, 4) 6a, 5) 5+, 6) 5+, 7) 6a, 8) 6a, 9) 5, 10) 5+, 11) 6a, 12) 5+. A fine direct line of great rock. A...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a
5
Alabets
1) 5+, 2) 6a, 3) 5+, 4) 5+, 5) 5+, 6) 5, 7) 6a+, 8) 6a+, 9) 5+, 10) 5+, 11) 5+, 12) 5+. A great climb with some...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6a+
6
Teddybear
1) 5, 2) 6a, 3) 6a+, 4) 5, 5) 5. The line to the left of the low-relief grassy buttress has a couple of fairly intense pitches...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a+
7
L'amuse gueule
1) 5, 2) 5+. The first route beyond the grassy buttress. Start at the name and climb the slab leftwards for two nice pitches.
 
2 Stars
5+
8
Le zoupard
1) 5+, 2) 5+. Two long (45m) pitches.
 
2 Stars
5+
9
La petiote
1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 5. Pass to the left of the prominent moustache-shaped overlap at 50m.
 
2 Stars
5+
10
Fa calou
1) 5, 2) 5+/A1, 3) 6a+, 4) 5+. Originally this ran as far as the junction with Terre courage but two more newer pitches are now...
 
2 Stars
6a+
11
Terre courage
1) 5, 2) 5, 3) 5, 4) 5+, 5) 6a. The longest route in this selection. Generally heading leftwards to seek out the cleanest rock....
 
3 Stars
6a
12
La titoune
1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 5+, 4) 5+, 5) 5+. Plugs a gap up the vague pillar between the older climbs, sneaking between the vegetation and...
 
2 Stars
5+
13
Le lézard
1) 5+, 2) 5, 3) 5, 4) 5+, 5) 5, 6) 6a, 7) 5+, 8) 4+, 9) 6a+, 10) 5+, 11) 6a, 12) 5. Another old and big classic heading for the...
 
3 Stars
6a+
14
Quatier d'été
A direct pitch to the first stance of Le lézard.
 
1 Stars
5+
15
Les coucougnettes
 
1 Stars
5
16
Les enfants de la dalle
Probably the most renowned classic on the whole mountain. With 25 pitches forging a line up the pale slabs that fall direct...
 
3 Stars
Rounded
6a+
17
Durendalle
An altogether harder offering for those who prefer long and hard instead of just long! Not to be underestimated - 24 pitches,...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
6b