Adjacent Areas
< Le pilier sud | East Face >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
40 minsWindy
A superb face, up to 400m high, slabby in the lower section and steepening with height. All the routes described here are fully equipped. Guidebook page 277.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Canne de serin 1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 6a+, 4) 6a+. A steady couple of pitches lead to sterner stuff. The third pitch is sustained, and the hardest... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6a+ |
2 |
Conflit de génération 1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 6a, 4) 6a, 5) 5+. A good sustained route starting up the slab to the left of the Goulotte Ravier. Follow the... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6a |
3 |
Rose 1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+/A0, 4) 6a, 5) 5+, 6) 5+, 7) 5+, 8) 5+, 9) 5+. An excellent outing, mostly sustained around 5+ with the odd... | 3 Stars | 6a |
4 |
L'ours en Peluche 1) 5+, 2) 5, 3) 5+, 4) 6a, 5) 5+, 6) 5+, 7) 6a, 8) 6a, 9) 5, 10) 5+, 11) 6a, 12) 5+. A fine direct line of great rock. A... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6a |
5 |
Alabets 1) 5+, 2) 6a, 3) 5+, 4) 5+, 5) 5+, 6) 5, 7) 6a+, 8) 6a+, 9) 5+, 10) 5+, 11) 5+, 12) 5+. A great climb with some... | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6a+ |
6 |
Teddybear 1) 5, 2) 6a, 3) 6a+, 4) 5, 5) 5. The line to the left of the low-relief grassy buttress has a couple of fairly intense pitches... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6a+ |
7 |
L'amuse gueule 1) 5, 2) 5+. The first route beyond the grassy buttress. Start at the name and climb the slab leftwards for two nice pitches. | 2 Stars | 5+ |
8 |
Le zoupard 1) 5+, 2) 5+. Two long (45m) pitches. | 2 Stars | 5+ |
9 |
La petiote 1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 5. Pass to the left of the prominent moustache-shaped overlap at 50m. | 2 Stars | 5+ |
10 |
Fa calou 1) 5, 2) 5+/A1, 3) 6a+, 4) 5+. Originally this ran as far as the junction with Terre courage but two more newer pitches are now... | 2 Stars | 6a+ |
11 |
Terre courage 1) 5, 2) 5, 3) 5, 4) 5+, 5) 6a. The longest route in this selection. Generally heading leftwards to seek out the cleanest rock.... | 3 Stars | 6a |
12 |
La titoune 1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 5+, 4) 5+, 5) 5+. Plugs a gap up the vague pillar between the older climbs, sneaking between the vegetation and... | 2 Stars | 5+ |
13 |
Le lézard 1) 5+, 2) 5, 3) 5, 4) 5+, 5) 5, 6) 6a, 7) 5+, 8) 4+, 9) 6a+, 10) 5+, 11) 6a, 12) 5. Another old and big classic heading for the... | 3 Stars | 6a+ |
14 |
Quatier d'été A direct pitch to the first stance of Le lézard. | 1 Stars | 5+ |
15 |
Les coucougnettes | 1 Stars | 5 |
16 |
Les enfants de la dalle Probably the most renowned classic on the whole mountain. With 25 pitches forging a line up the pale slabs that fall direct... | 3 Stars Rounded | 6a+ |
17 |
Durendalle An altogether harder offering for those who prefer long and hard instead of just long! Not to be underestimated - 24 pitches,... | 3 Stars Pumpy Rounded | 6b |