South Face

Adjacent Areas
< Sector Lennon  |  Sector Blanco >

Sport
Sun and Shade
Uphill
8 mins

The most popular section of the cliff has a bunch of good face routes, all of which are a bit polished. Most have high lower-offs or the option of topping-out if desired. Many of the grades feel a bit tough. Guidebook page 65.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Victoria Elvira
Start under the leaning wall and trend left with difficulty, then climb thin cracks in the blunt rib, passing a lower-off at...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
2
Majura Directisima
The juggy central crack-line in the leaning face is approached up the tilted wall using a bit of aid early on. Above that it...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
3
Variante Majura
A right-hand start trends left across the face and manages to avoid the aid on the regular route. Another great outing.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
4
Gallego - Carlos
Start under the southwest arete and climb up and left (a bit intimidating) to a rest in a niche. Undercut awkwardly leftwards...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
5
Pili Directa
A hard direct start to Pili up its leaning left-hand side.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
6
Esther
An eliminate taking a direct line up the face right of the arete, with a fingery start and some excellent climbing above.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
7
Pili
An old classic - devious, interesting and not too hard. From a pedestal, climb up left to the arete. The balancy groove round...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
5
8
Niña Bonita
Another fingery eliminate but with good moves. Start up Pili but move right and climb direct following the staples.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b
9
Porki
The direct line off the big plinth is sustained and interesting to a fingery finish up the unhelpful battered crack near the...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
10
Pipi
Great climbing. Balance up the wall following the line of staples left of the cave.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
6a
11
Sur
A worthwhile classic but very polished. Follow the slippery slanting crack to a bay, then pull right from here to reach a crack...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
5
12
'M'
An odd eliminate. Start up the crack of Sur but move out left and head up the smooth face just left of Porki. Finishing up...
 
1 Stars
6a+
13
Murciano - Catalana
Climb straight up the narrow wall (tricky start) to a cave and then the lower-off. Use the bolts on Sur on the upper section.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
5+
14
Sevi - Spiri
Climb the wide slanting fissure and pull left through the overlap (polished and tricky) then climb the face to meet Murciano -...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
5+
15
Almirante
Head straight up the crack into the hanging groove above then move out left onto the face. Climb up and right into a curving...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5
16
Mar
Balance up the lower arete, or climb the short wall just left (large glue-in bolts). From the ledge continue up the thin...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
17
Espolón Sureste
Scramble right then back left to avoid the lower arete then climb the cracks just right of the upper arete. Nuts required,...
 
Loose
5
18
San Bernardo
The big chimney is approached by the left-hand crack in the slab (bolt to the right) and climbed awkwardly to the top. The...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
5
19
Pep Camarena
The balancy right-hand side of the face has its moments.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
20
Arista Sureste
A long rambling classic with a choice of starts. A belay is possible at the top of the initial rib. There isn't much gear so...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
4+
21
Sur Directa
20m. The wall just to the right joining Sur at 10m.
 
Technical
Crimpy
5+
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  • Latest Comments

    For LA PANOCHA

    Anda que no Andas ná
    "Good climbing up a strong feature. Excellent. Chris Heald" 02/Mar

    Sobredosis
    "If that's a 6b, that's a REALLY hard one :-)" 10/Oct

    Maneras de Subir
    "Changed from 6a+ * to 6b+ **, 0% of 2 votes for 6b+, 0% of 2 votes for **" 25/Feb

    Pili
    "I agree with other comments. Not 3 stars and some moves are hard with awkward b..." 12/Oct

    Norte Baldomera
    "Harder than Cachondeo, that's for sure! A great, intricate, route with a proper ..." 04/Jan

    Follando y el sol pegando
    "I seem to have had a completely different experience from your other corresponde..." 05/Nov

    Fisura de la sinfonía
    "The continuation to the top lower-off is much easier than the rest of the route,..." 15/Apr

    Cachondeos
    "Nice climbing, with a tasty technical crux low down and a juggy steep section th..." 25/Mar

    Dougal Haston
    "Steep but steady to the break and then technically interesting getting over the ..." 10/Mar

    Sur
    "It takes a while to adjust to the conglomerate footwork! But not too badly poli..." 22/Dec

    Victoria Elvira
    "7a is a joke for this route. The climbing past the first three bolts is solid 7..." 10/Dec

    Gulliver
    "I nice route up what looks like conglomerate for the first 4/5 of the climb, but..." 02/Apr

    Sur
    "It is polished but not that bad Toni careful footwork. Still a worthwile and an ..." 03/Jan

    Arista Sureste
    "50m double rope makes this route excellent, both up and down. No rope drag. Used..." 01/Jan

    Anda que no Andas ná
    "Good climb, quite balancy half way up. In the book it says there is no lower off..." 02/Nov

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