South Face

Adjacent Areas
< Sector Lennon  |  Sector Blanco >

Sport
Sun and Shade
8 mins
Uphill

The most popular section of the cliff has a bunch of good face routes, all of which are a bit polished. Most have high lower-offs or the option of topping-out if desired. Many of the grades feel a bit tough.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Victoria Elvira
Start under the leaning wall and trend left with difficulty, then climb thin cracks in the blunt rib, passing a lower-off at...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
2
Majura Directisima
The juggy central crack-line in the leaning face is approached up the tilted wall using a bit of aid early on. Above that it...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
3
Variante Majura
A right-hand start trends left across the face and manages to avoid the aid on the regular route. Another great outing.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
4
Gallego - Carlos
Start under the southwest arete and climb up and left (a bit intimidating) to a rest in a niche. Undercut awkwardly leftwards...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
5
Pili Directa
A hard direct start to Pili up its leaning left-hand side.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
6
Esther
An eliminate taking a direct line up the face right of the arete, with a fingery start and some excellent climbing above.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
7
Pili
An old classic - devious, interesting and not too hard. From a pedestal, climb up left to the arete. The balancy groove round...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
5a
8
Niña Bonita
Another fingery eliminate but with good moves. Start up Pili but move right and climb direct following the staples.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b
9
Porki
The direct line off the big plinth is sustained and interesting to a fingery finish up the unhelpful battered crack near the...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
10
Pipi
Great climbing. Balance up the wall following the line of staples left of the cave.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
6a
11
Sur
A worthwhile classic but very polished. Follow the slippery slanting crack to a bay, then pull right from here to reach a crack...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
5a
12
'M'
An odd eliminate. Start up the crack of Sur but move out left and head up the smooth face just left of Porki. Finishing up...
 
1 Stars
6a+
13
Murciano - Catalana
Climb straight up the narrow wall (tricky start) to a cave and then the lower-off. Use the bolts on Sur on the upper section.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
5c
14
Sevi - Spiri
Climb the wide slanting fissure and pull left through the overlap (polished and tricky) then climb the face to meet Murciano -...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
5c
15
Almirante
Head straight up the crack into the hanging groove above then move out left onto the face. Climb up and right into a curving...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5a
16
Mar
Balance up the lower arete, or climb the short wall just left (large glue-in bolts). From the ledge continue up the thin...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
17
Espolón Sureste
Scramble right then back left to avoid the lower arete then climb the cracks just right of the upper arete. Nuts required,...
 
Loose
5a
18
San Bernardo
The big chimney is approached by the left-hand crack in the slab (bolt to the right) and climbed awkwardly to the top. The...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
5a
19
Pep Camarena
The balancy right-hand side of the face has its moments.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
20
Arista Sureste
A long rambling classic with a choice of starts. A belay is possible at the top of the initial rib. There isn't much gear so...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
4c
21
Sur Directa
20m. The wall just to the right joining Sur at 10m.
 
Technical
Crimpy
5c
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  • Latest Comments

    For LA PANOCHA

    Anda que no Andas ná
    "Good climbing up a strong feature. Excellent. Chris Heald" 02/Mar

    Sobredosis
    "If that's a 6b, that's a REALLY hard one :-)" 10/Oct

    Niña Bonita
    "Changed from 6a+ * to 6b **, 0% of 2 votes for 6b, 50% of 2 votes for **" 25/Feb

    Pili
    "I agree with other comments. Not 3 stars and some moves are hard with awkward b..." 12/Oct

    Norte Baldomera
    "Harder than Cachondeo, that's for sure! A great, intricate, route with a proper ..." 04/Jan

    Follando y el sol pegando
    "I seem to have had a completely different experience from your other corresponde..." 05/Nov

    Fisura de la sinfonía
    "The continuation to the top lower-off is much easier than the rest of the route,..." 15/Apr

    Cachondeos
    "Nice climbing, with a tasty technical crux low down and a juggy steep section th..." 25/Mar

    Dougal Haston
    "Steep but steady to the break and then technically interesting getting over the ..." 10/Mar

    Sur
    "It takes a while to adjust to the conglomerate footwork! But not too badly poli..." 22/Dec

    Victoria Elvira
    "7a is a joke for this route. The climbing past the first three bolts is solid 7..." 10/Dec

    Gulliver
    "I nice route up what looks like conglomerate for the first 4/5 of the climb, but..." 02/Apr

    Sur
    "It is polished but not that bad Toni careful footwork. Still a worthwile and an ..." 03/Jan

    Arista Sureste
    "50m double rope makes this route excellent, both up and down. No rope drag. Used..." 01/Jan

    Anda que no Andas ná
    "Good climb, quite balancy half way up. In the book it says there is no lower off..." 02/Nov

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