Becalmed Area

Sport
Sun and Shade
30 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

This section of cliff provides a welcome respite from the very hard routes encountered on The Promenade with something of interest for most tastes. On the left is a deep recess has been developed mainly as a bouldering area. The problems here are short, powerful and mostly hard and are included as they are often dry.
Tides - It is non-tidal but keep away in rough seas.
Approach - At the base of the descent, turn left (looking out) and continue past the recess to an area of staggered roofs directly below the cliff-top quarry.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Baby-faced Assassin
A well-positioned steepy just inside the cave, starting via a short crack.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7a+
2
Boongary
Climb steeply up left to the easier upper wall.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
HVS
3
Hip Hop
Start up Boongary and then follow a small ramp right and make a powerful move over the roof. Finish up the clean slab.
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
4
German New Order
The hard wall 5m right of the cave to a juggy roof.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
5
Blitzkrieg
A hard and fingery problem with a crux at the roof. Old bolts.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
6
Big Brother Is Watching
Some big pulls on jugs through the roof.
 
1 Stars
7a
7
Ju An Si Wei
Start at a roof capped left-facing corner. Climb the corner and traverse right onto the front face. Finish direct.
 
1 Stars
VS
8
Kangaroo
A good climb that features a start for those with strong arms.
 
1 Stars
Strong
HS
9
Spray Fever
The leaning wall right of the start of Kangaroo is bold.
 
Fluttery
E1
10
Distant Early Warning
The bold, juggy roof leads to much easier climbing.
 
Reachy
Fluttery
E1
11
Original Route
Move up the corner and traverse leftwards to clear the roof. Finish rightwards with care up the easy but bold slab and corner.
 S
12
Kool and the Gang
The corner of Original Route and its continuation leads to a steep pull through the roof.
 
1 Stars
E1
13
Playing With Fire
The slabby wall and roof right of Kool and the Gang. A weird crux that involves a swing leftwards over the roof.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
14
Genetix
A black groove leading through four roofs is quite a tough little number. Good rock and climbing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
15
Seratonin
The easy slab and 3m roof to good holds. Tough.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
7a+
16
Boiling Point
The bouldery roof right of Genetix, starting at a hanging, left-facing corner. Hard.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
17
To Fever Pitch
A multiple roof stack with great moves.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
18
Becalmed
Good cranky stuff over a few bulges.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
19
Stakk Attakk
A few tricky reaches past a small roof are gained by a short traverse from the left.
 
1 Stars
E2
20
Geordie Pride
A strenuous diagonal over the flying roof right of Stakk Attakk. Finish via a rockover onto the upper slab.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a
21
DWM
The innocuous-looking corner is good but hard won.
 
1 Stars
Strong
E2
22
Peggy's Cove
A very hard pull to distant holds over the low overhang.
3 user comments
 
Reachy
Technical
6c+
23
Zeitgeist
The sustained open corner has good rock and climbing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
24
Spirits Rising
The reachy roof and fingery wall just right of Zeitgeist.
 
Reachy
Strong
Crimpy
7b
  • Access Issues for Dorset


  • Latest Comments

    For THE PROMENADE

    Benny
    "Changed from VS *** to A1 ***, no votes" 07/Jul

    Atonement
    "The large loose and dangerous resting jug/block has been removed from the top s..." 14/May

    The Calling
    "The bolt under the roof looks rusty from the ground but it's a solid stainless j..." 18/Apr

    Rise of the Robots
    "I think it's 7b+ but when I tryed it recently It felt hard again. So maybe it wa..." 26/Jan

    Titter Ye Not Mrs!
    "joel 'the route destroyer' perry pulled a rather large finishin pinch off just b..." 19/Aug

    The Futurist 2002
    "the hanger has fallen off one of expansion bolts higher up. but there is an easy..." 18/Aug

    Grossville
    "done! Amazing!" 17/Aug

    Grossville
    "rebolted with with glue ins. shares the same first bolt as spacewalk. a very goo..." 22/Jun

    Boiling Point
    "The second bolt needs replacing- it can be partially removed by hand." 14/Jun

    Howling Stone
    "Have done a new route/old project about 60m to the right of "The Incredible..." 05/Jun

    Titter Ye Not Mrs!
    "proper good! man i love promenade!" 01/Jun

    Benny
    "some of the fixed slings are getting worn and at least one broke, take narrow ta..." 19/Apr

    Liquid Steel
    "Fantastic moves; a touch harder (and nicer) than Rise of the Robots, although a ..." 28/Jul

    Event Horizon
    "I don't want to sound non-committal but it really does depend. Last year the Pr..." 17/Jun

    Event Horizon
    "Is late summer/early autumn the best season for this route/crag? I went there a ..." 16/Jun

    Event Horizon
    "The roofs will dry if it doesn't rain. The far eastern end of the prom does tend..." 12/Jun

    Event Horizon
    "Can I ask what are the chances of this route being dry before the autumn. I went..." 09/Jun

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