Adjacent Areas
< Magical Mystery Tour | Toix Este >
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and Down
20 minsAbseil
Seepage
Windy
The most developed section of the Toix Sea Cliffs is the huge and spectacular Pirates of the Caribbean cave. This is home to some mid-to-hard sport routes giving superb climbing in an atmospheric setting. Unfortunately some of the bolts used are already showing signs of age. Guidebook page 312.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Calypso The left-most line starts up a corner. To the first lower-off is 6c. | 1 Stars Pumpy | ?? |
2 |
El fin del Mundo To the first lower-off is 7a+. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
3 |
El perla negra It is 7a+ to the first lower-off. The upper tufas can be wet. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
4 |
Boson The left (looking in) arete of the cave gives a superb route.1) 5+. Pleasant but exposed. 2) 7b+. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
5 |
Murtogg A single pitch to the Boson lower-off. | 1 Stars | 6c+ |
6 |
Mullroy Another single pitch to the Boson lower-off. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
7 |
Boson's Chair Break left above the belay. | 1 Stars Technical | 7c |
8 |
Tia Alma Climb higher up Bosun before breaking out left. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
9 |
Tortuga Approach The pocket crackline to a steep finish on the centre of the pillar. | 1 Stars | 7a |
10 |
Tortuga Island An upper pitch which can be gained from either side. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c |
11 |
Captain Barbossa 1) 6b. Gain a diagonal groove which leads to a lower-off. 2) 7a+. Continue up rightwards - poor rock. Lower-off or finish up... | Pumpy Loose | 7a+ |
12 |
Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones Climb direct up tufas, past a blob, with increasing difficulty (possible lower-off). Continue more easily (6b+) to the top - no... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7c+ |
13 |
Off the Edge of the Map Break out right from the tufa blob on Anna Marie... up the edge of the cave. Take care when cleaning this pitch. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
14 |
Keelhauled Climb direct to a small groove, then go up left, crossing Captain Barbossa, to a belay in the roof. Either lower off or pull... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
15 |
Plank Walk Continue direct from the groove on Keelhauled, finishing up Captain Barbossa, or Parle. | 1 Stars | 6c |
16 |
Parle An amazing classic which takes you to places not usually found on a 6a+. The route is very exposed and intimidating but... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Fluttery | 6a+ |
17 |
Miss Swan The rib opposite Parle. 1) 5+. Climb to a belay below a steep wall. Very spaced bolts. 2) 6b. Make an awkward traverse left to... | 1 Stars Loose | 6b |
18 |
Aztec Gold Climb some crazy rock up to the belay of Welcome... | 6b+ | |
19 |
Welcome to the Caribbean The spectacular right arete of the cave. Approach from Aztec Gold or abseil. Abseil to the left (looking out) of the larger... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7c+ |
20 |
Jack Sparrow Locate a double bolt belay on a slab to the right of the smaller hole (looking out). Climb down 3m then start traversing right... | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
21 |
Orange Men A single pitch route 80m further left (looking out). Abseil in (clipping as you go) and climb back out. Old bolts. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 8a+ |
