Pirates of the Caribbean

Adjacent Areas
< Magical Mystery Tour  |  Toix Este >

Sport
Sun from mid-morning
20 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Seepage

The most developed section of the Toix Sea Cliffs is the huge and spectacular Pirates of the Caribbean cave. This is home to some mid-to-hard sport routes giving superb climbing in an atmospheric setting. Unfortunately some of the bolts used are already showing signs of age. Guidebook page 312.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Calypso
The left-most line starts up a corner. To the first lower-off is 6c.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
??
2
El fin del Mundo
To the first lower-off is 7a+.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
3
El perla negra
It is 7a+ to the first lower-off. The upper tufas can be wet.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a
4
Boson
The left (looking in) arete of the cave gives a superb route.1) 5+. Pleasant but exposed. 2) 7b+.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
5
Murtogg
A single pitch to the Boson lower-off.
 
1 Stars
6c+
6
Mullroy
Another single pitch to the Boson lower-off.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
7
Boson's Chair
Break left above the belay.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
8
Tia Alma
Climb higher up Bosun before breaking out left.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
9
Tortuga Approach
The pocket crackline to a steep finish on the centre of the pillar.
 
1 Stars
7a
10
Tortuga Island
An upper pitch which can be gained from either side.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
11
Captain Barbossa
1) 6b. Gain a diagonal groove which leads to a lower-off. 2) 7a+. Continue up rightwards - poor rock. Lower-off or finish up...
 
Pumpy
Loose
7a+
12
Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones
Climb direct up tufas, past a blob, with increasing difficulty (possible lower-off). Continue more easily (6b+) to the top - no...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
13
Off the Edge of the Map
Break out right from the tufa blob on Anna Marie... up the edge of the cave. Take care when cleaning this pitch.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a
14
Keelhauled
Climb direct to a small groove, then go up left, crossing Captain Barbossa, to a belay in the roof. Either lower off or pull...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
15
Plank Walk
Continue direct from the groove on Keelhauled, finishing up Captain Barbossa, or Parle.
 
1 Stars
6c
16
Parle
An amazing classic which takes you to places not usually found on a 6a+. The route is very exposed and intimidating but...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
6a+
17
Miss Swan
The rib opposite Parle. 1) 5+. Climb to a belay below a steep wall. Very spaced bolts. 2) 6b. Make an awkward traverse left to...
 
1 Stars
Loose
6b
18
Aztec Gold
Climb some crazy rock up to the belay of Welcome...
 6b+
19
Welcome to the Caribbean
The spectacular right arete of the cave. Approach from Aztec Gold or abseil. Abseil to the left (looking out) of the larger...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
20
Jack Sparrow
Locate a double bolt belay on a slab to the right of the smaller hole (looking out). Climb down 3m then start traversing right...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
21
Orange Men
A single pitch route 80m further left (looking out). Abseil in (clipping as you go) and climb back out. Old bolts.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
  • Access Issues for Costa Blanca


  • Latest Comments

    For SIERRA DE TOIX

    4 You
    "Start is squeezed between two adjacent routes on non obvious holds, a bit artifi..." 30/Nov

    Monkey Wall
    "Fun climbing threw the hueco chimney with sufficiant bolts (first a little bit h..." 24/Nov

    Carlos
    "Pitch 1 is squeezed between Blue on one side, Red on 'tother; but betweenthere i..." 19/Nov

    The Toix Ridge
    "now and then dubious relais and sometimes long distances between bolts (on the e..." 16/Nov

    Jan
    "Pleasant and quite sustained. It can be done on a 60m rope if you angle your abs..." 21/Oct

    Lofi
    "Communication is impossible after the first pitch. If you are not used to moves ..." 22/Aug

    Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
    "Last week I rebolted the complete route with stainless bolts, so the climb is pr..." 07/May

    Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones
    "This is a 7c. It has never been 7c+. I am the first ascender and Paul Thorburn..." 29/Mar

    Cilber
    "Changed from 5+ * to 5+ **, 0% of 2 votes for **" 06/Mar

    Coming back to Life
    "I agree with this being upgraded to 6c, it's hard and scary. I had a brown trous..." 06/Mar

    Painted Wall
    "Gets harder and harder with height. Brilliant positions." 01/Feb

    Vía Missing Link
    "It isn't clear where to traverse. Down at the water (like the line in the topo) ..." 11/Jan

    Monkey Wall
    "Good route but 2 stars, not 3. There are bolts in the hueco filled "chimne..." 21/Nov

    Oma Sus
    "There's now another route called "Opa Mus" so take care at the start! ..." 12/Nov

    The Whole of Creation
    "There's a new route on the arete just left of this one. Good fun, a couple of se..." 06/Oct

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