Squid Area

Adjacent Areas
< The Conger Area  |  Vigilante Area >

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Lots of sun!
40 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

This area is often ignored in favour of its more illustrious neighbours but it contains a good set of mainly harder routes that tackle the roof and overlap covered wall.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Felix Top 50
Pleasant climbing up the juggy wall and tricky high groove.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
VD
2
Rough Boys
Good but slightly escapable. Start 3m right of a wide crack. The hard bit is reserved for the upper crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
3
Bon Firé
A great little expedition. Climb Rough Boys then move right and up before traversing rightwards across the lip of the big upper...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5c
4
The Wey of All Men
Well protected and varied. Start as for Rough Boys.1) 4c, 10m. Climb up to clear the first overhang then traverse right...
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
5
FAGI Code 65
Climb straight up to the corner of the roof and hand traverse the horizontal crack right for 2m. Ascend the flake-crack to a...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
6
Quo Vadis Direct
Despite the name, a wandering route up the buttress left of the impending roofs above the main ledge. The start is often...
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
7
Paternoster
An awkward undertaking. Start as for Quo Vadis Direct.1) 5c, 20m. Climb into a niche and then up into a chimney/slot (2...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
8
Bad Young Brother
A direct route with reasonable gear. From the first niche on The Ritz, break left (crux) around a bulge (2 threads on the left)...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6b
9
The Ritz
A brilliant outing for the grade, travelling through some awesome overhangs with good protection. Start below a niche.1)...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E3 6a
10
Squid
A tough roof crack. Start beneath the right wall of the roofed central bay at a diagonal crack.1) 5a, 10m. Follow the crack...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E2 5c
11
Crackers
A bold undertaking skirting the right-hand side of the roofs.1) 5b, 10m. Climb direct above the start of Squid via a short...
 
Fluttery
E3 5c
12
Mental as Anything
A safe and strenuous undertaking. Climb past a ledge then up a groove to tackle the first overhang (2 threads). Pull straight...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E4 6b
13
Rock Around the Block Direct
An enjoyable outing which is more sustained than cruxy. Start at the left-hand side of a rock pool. Trend right to gain a...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 6a
14
Sting in the Tail
Bold but with great rock. Reported to have lost a hold and maybe harder. Start on the right-hand side of a rock pool. Climb...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
15
Limited Edition
Start just right of an arete. Climb to a shallow right-facing corner. Climb this easily to a roof then move direct up the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For FISHERMAN'S LEDGE

    Damage Case
    "it took me 3 trips to get to the right spot for the abseil in for the routes off..." 07/May

    Paternoster
    "Found this quite stiff." 29/Jan

    Damage Case
    "a nasty start, followed by a lovely top section; harder but not as good as Calci..." 22/Jul

    Calcitron
    "Possible new route up the wall to the right of Calcitron at about E3 5c. More in..." 25/Apr

    Gorillas in the Mist
    "Threads replaced (June 09) though would only really trust the one at the bottom ..." 29/Jun

    Palace of the Brine
    "rebolted with shiny new glue ins. there is also another bolt line in this cave t..." 13/Jun

    Sue's Route
    "Nice route. OK at the grade I thought." 19/Apr

    Rufty Tufty
    "The entire Rufty Tufty area has collapsed removing the big roof and all the rock..." 13/Apr

    Gorillas in the Mist
    "superb route, s stars for sure. The threads are a in a poor state at the moment..." 16/Mar

    Limited Edition
    "On a repeat ascent using the new start (well, up the crack between the original ..." 08/Mar

    End of the Innocence
    "Almost this entire page of the guide book has fallen off into the sea. Infact o..." 09/Jun

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