Squid Area

Adjacent Areas
< The Conger Area  |  Vigilante Area >

Trad
Sun and Shade
40 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

This area is often ignored in favour of its more illustrious neighbours but it contains a good set of mainly harder routes that tackle the roof and overlap covered wall.
Approach - Reverse down Helix or abseil from stakes above the finish of Quo Vadis. The first route in this area is on the far left (looking in) of the sea-level ledges, just before the cliff turns a corner.
Tides and conditions - The ledges are just above high tide but keep away in rough seas. The roofs can be very greasy at times.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Felix
Pleasant climbing up the juggy wall and tricky high groove.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
VD
2
Rough Boys
Good but slightly escapable. Start 3m right of a wide crack. The hard bit is reserved for the upper crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS
3
Bon Firé
A great little expedition. Climb Rough Boys then move right and up before traversing rightwards across the lip of the big upper...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1
4
The Wey of All Men
Well protected and varied. Start as for Rough Boys.1) 4c, 10m. Climb up to clear the first overhang then traverse right...
 
1 Stars
E3
5
FAGI Code 65
Climb straight up to the corner of the roof and hand traverse the horizontal crack right for 2m. Ascend the flake-crack to a...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3
6
Quo Vadis Direct
Despite the name, a wandering route up the buttress left of the impending roofs above the main ledge. The start is often...
 
1 Stars
E2
7
Paternoster
An awkward undertaking. Start as for Quo Vadis Direct.1) 5c, 20m. Climb into a niche and then up into a chimney/slot (2...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2
8
Bad Young Brother
A direct route with reasonable gear. From the first niche on The Ritz, break left (crux) around a bulge (2 threads on the left)...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4
9
The Ritz
A brilliant outing for the grade, travelling through some awesome overhangs with good protection. Start below a niche.1)...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E3
10
Squid
A tough roof crack. Start beneath the right wall of the roofed central bay at a diagonal crack.1) 5a, 10m. Follow the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E2
11
Crackers
A bold undertaking skirting the right-hand side of the roofs.1) 5b, 10m. Climb direct above the start of Squid via a short...
 
Fluttery
E3
12
Mental as Anything
A safe and strenuous undertaking. Climb past a ledge then up a groove to tackle the first overhang (2 threads). Pull straight...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E4
13
Rock Around the Block Direct
An enjoyable outing which is more sustained than cruxy. Start at the left-hand side of a rock pool. Trend right to gain a...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3
14
Sting in the Tail
Bold but with great rock. Reported to have lost a hold and maybe harder. Start on the right-hand side of a rock pool. Climb...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
15
Limited Edition
Start just right of an arete. Climb to a shallow right-facing corner. Climb this easily to a roof then move direct up the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3