Castellet de Calp Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
No sun
Up and Down
5 mins
Sheltered

There are two main developed sectors at the moment, the Cueva Pequeña high on the left and the Central Wall, down to the right. Guidebook page 286.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Life's a Block
A shallow groove leads to a bulge. Pull through and climb the slab to a large block. Step right to the lower-off.
 
1 Stars
6b+
2
Hunting Party
Start further up the gully. Climb the rib to access the slab. Go right through the overlap and then climb the juggy wall.
 
1 Stars
6b+
3
The Razor's Edge
Start below the cave. Cross a slab, then climb the wall to a tufa on the wall. Pockets and poor holds gain a vague crack and...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
4
The Gash
An unusual route up a superb feature. Climb the roof to access the deep runnel. Climb up (in?) this and at the top move right...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
6c+
5
Collateral Damage
An amazing pitch through the roof of the cave. Cross the initial roof to a shallow depression, reach better holds above where a...
 
3 Stars
7c
6
Unnamed
A three-pitch route, individual pitch grades are unknown. Climb the left rib of the cave through the bulge to a belay. Up the...
 6c
7
Stalking the Angel
Climb the steep wall above the approach path with three hard sections between the good holds.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
8
Shogun
Climb up the middle of the wall via a large tufa and some small finger pockets. Low in the grade.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7c+
9
FHM
A hard start up tufas reaches good pockets and a prominent undercut. Span to a good pocket, then use edges to gain excellent...
 
2 Stars
7a
10
Destination Lost
Climb the steep, left-trending line using pockets on the right wall. At the roof, pull rightwards and climb the slab to the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
11
Chasing the Dinosaur
Steep and sustained. Climbs the steepest part of the orange wall, the initial bulge has good holds leading to a hard move then...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c
12
The Reckoning
Climb the tough bulge to a good rest. Avoid the flake on the left by stepping right, reach a good hold in the depression above...
 
1 Stars
7c
13
Brain Freeze
The diagonal line of pockets. Climb to a hole, then pull up the thin flake to a good pocket. Continue up the crack using...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
14
The Kraken
Climb a short wall to a tufa, and follow this to the bulges. These are passed with difficulty to reach easier climbing above.
 
2 Stars
7c+
15
Brandelero
Climb to a wide crack and go up the wall to a flake and better holds in a break. Pull up to below the roof. Move around this...
 
2 Stars
6c+
16
Brando Alto
A fine climb in a great position. Cross the slab rightwards to a good flake, then span the groove and pull to jugs above the...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
6c
17
Sleepyhead
Start at a ground-level hole. Climb the tough wall to a slot and continue through the bulge above which things ease slightly.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
18
Sleepynut
This will be an excellent extension to Sleepyhead.
 ??
19
The Juggler
Sharp. Small holds gain a good tufa and undercut. Pull up left into a groove and climb to the roof which is passed on good...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a
20
Poison Ivy
Make long moves using good flakes and tufas to gain a big jug in the middle of the wall. Continue up the orange groove or the...
 
2 Stars
7b
21
Suero
Big pockets lead to a small flake in the wall, pass the small roof to a breather then climb the bulge to a good flake. Step...
 
3 Stars
7b
22
Ant Invasion
Pockets lead to tufas next to a useful tree. Harder moves gain good holds, then make a tricky pull onto a slab which leads to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
23
Congrio
Make a steep start (above the big hole) on good pockets and pull rightwards - hard - to get established on the wall. Balance up...
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
24
Lockdown
Climb the bulge on good holds to a ramp. Continue direct but move left and clip the last bolt on Ant Invasion thus avoiding the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
25
The Long Con
1) 7b, 25m. Up a crack to a roof and then follow a tricky groove pulling left through the bulge on better holds. An easy slab...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
26
Vamos a la playa
Start at the left side of the cutaway and climb to a good hold at the first bolt. Crucial fingery moves gain better holds then...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7b
27
Red Bull
Start under a tufa in the centre of the wall. A desperate boulder problem reaches good holds, climb a shallow groove and pull...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c+
28
Quicksilver
Start at the edge of a slab and pull left onto the wall, climbing this to join Pilot Error at the flake. Continue direct to the...
 
2 Stars
7a
29
Fast Lane
The extension. Climb the bulge (crux) and wall above on small edges until better holds finally appear. Sustained and sharp.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
30
Pilot Error
Start at the slab and follow its edge until a move left onto the wall reaches a good flake. Climb this to the big ledge. Step...
 
2 Stars
6c+
31
Perfect '10'
A great extension on superb rock. From the belay pull up and stretch to good holds. Continue into a shallow scoop and teeter up...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b
32
Maiden Voyage
Start up the slab to the first bulge. Continue up the groove to a lower-off at the steep bulge above.
 
1 Stars
6a+
33
Maiden Voyage II
A long one. Climb Maiden Voyage then pull through the bulge to a rest standing on blocks. Move left up a shallow corner, pull...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
34
Ice Age
Start at the end of a small ledge. Climb a flake and a line up the slab to another flake. At its top step left to join Maiden...
 
1 Stars
6a
35
The Black Pearl
Start up Ice Age but climb direct up the slab to flakes. Pull up and right to a rest then continue on good holds to the belay.
 
2 Stars
7a+
36
Iron Man
Use two pockets to access the wall. Continue to a flake then pull up to good holds. Move into the groove then pull out left and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b
37
Captain Barbosa
Pull over a low roof and climb the wall to a rest below a crack. Pull up this then use pockets to reach the upper shield of...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7b+