Castellets Routes

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  El Realet Ridge >

Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill
10 mins

Guidebook page 196.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Zephyr
Good thin crack and face climbing. Also known as Maysa.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b
2
Thrasher
Straight up the thin face. There is a project just to the left.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
3
Cosmic Policement
A steep start leads to the arete and easier ground.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
4
Cosmos
Climb the long arete from the bottom.
 
1 Stars
6a
5
The Chimnet
Climb the deep 'n' weird chimney. Reportedly home to snakes!
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
5
6
Vía Javi
The arete has a steep start and some fingery moves above.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a
7
Oposicion
The sustained and balancy groove gives a good pitch.
 
1 Stars
Technical
5+
8
El mussol
E2. A well-protected crack climb with bolted lower-off.
 
Pumpy
6a+
9
Off the Wall
Thin wall-climbing, steepening towards the top.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
10
Independent
Thin climbing, especially past the fourth bolt.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
11
Flip
HVS. Up the crusty arete, with two peg runners near the top.
 
Fluttery
Loose
5+
12
Walk in the Wild
Climb the slab and groove to a ledge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a+
13
Enjoy
Climb to an under-cut and then the crux move a little higher. The bolt line is a variation - grade unknown.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
14
La Cara
Good but thin face climbing just to the right.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
15
The Groove
E1. Up the corner to a poorly positioned lower-off, best to ab.
1 user comment
 
Loose
6a
16
Blue Sky Rain
Nice face climbing to the small roof which has good holds.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b
17
Power Flex
The grey wall is climbed on mostly good holds (6b). The second pitch is both pumpy and balancy.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
18
Levilicas
Tricky moves access the easy groove. The exit is grotty.
 4
19
Vía Andrea
A slab leads to a couple of tricky moves on the upper wall.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
5+
20
Bosigran
HVS. Climb the bold ramp or safe crack round to the right. Finish up the awkward groove above.
 
1 Stars
5+
21
Vía de fisueros
HS. Another trad offering up the crack/groove.
 4+
22
Deception
A neat arete where heel and toe hooking may prove useful.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
23
Obelisk
The short and technical arete across the gully. The lower-off is in a very suspect block, take care.
 
Technical
Pumpy
6c
24
Old Man of Sennen
E1. A good route up the cracks in pillar on the left.
 
1 Stars
6a+
25
Bosigran P2
HVS. The shallow groove has a few bolts near the top.
 5+
26
Four Fingers
The lay-back corner also has a few bolts near the top.
 5+
27
Guino Fisura
E1. The right-trending line leads to three bolts, then a crack-line with good protection.
 6a
28
El sueno
A nice face climb starting from the higher ledge, reached via a short fixed-rope.
 
1 Stars
6b
29
Down the Line
E1. The left-hand crack some bolts and pegs. Lower-off.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a
30
Isis
E2. A vague trad line with some bolts, pegs and lower-offs.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a+
31
Edward's Edge
Climb the short steep side-wall (lower-off at 12m) then continue up the narrow hanging slab passing two small over-laps.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
32
Genesis
The chimney, in one pitch or two, has spaced bolts and an awkwardly-positioned lower-off. More subterranean weirdness.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
5
33
Dawn Wall
Halfway up the chimney a set of alarming flakes lead up the wall.
 
Technical
Fluttery
6b
34
Smooth Operator
E2. From above the tree, head up the crack, avoiding reaching right to the bolts on the next route for the full effect.
 
Pumpy
6a+
35
Concrete Wave
A poor start leads to a better upper half - thin and technical.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
36
Anorexic Void
A scrappy start leads to better stuff up the corner, roof and hanging groove.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a