Brant Direct

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
5 mins
Uphill
Windy

The central section of the Grochan is fiercely steep. It has a few wandering mid-grade routes, but most of the climbs are stiff challenges. Nearly all are classic to greater or lesser extents. Most routes end at stances where an abseil is relatively simple to set up. Double 50m ropes required. For those who wish to top out, there is a walk-off descent to the left of Nea Buttress - see previous page.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
SS Special
A route of two halves; superb crack and face climbing followed by a stiff pull through the roof. Follow the right-hand crack in...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E2 5b
2
Sickle
A good route, but high in the grade.1) 5a, 20m. Start either side of the large flake. From the top of the flake, climb the...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5b
3
Venturi Effect
Start up the left-hand side of the Sickle flake and climb the groove direct via eye-wateringly-wide bridging, very small wires...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6a
4
Brant Direct
A brutal fight for those who can't jam or bridge, and just a mere brawl for those that can. The central groove gives this...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
HVS 5a
5
Cockblock Top 50
A fiercely-technical and powerful route with hard and bold climbing protected by small gear (micro-wires handy). Start right of...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
6
The Pump
A good route with a difficult to protect lower section that feels hard for E4. Start just left of Slape Direct and pull left...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6b
7
Slape Direct
Short and fierce. Gain the leftward-slanting crack and then a small quartz ledge on the right. This provides a launch pad for...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
8
First Amendment
The parallel line to Slape Direct gives a contrasting route. Start below the crack 3 metres to the right of Slape Direct.1)...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E2 5c
9
Brant
A great route in its lower parts. Start just above a collection of boulders below a V-groove. Most people only climb the first...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For CLOGWYN Y GROCHAN

    Spectrum
    "Changed from E2 5c ** to E2 5c ***, no votes" 10/Oct

    Hangover
    "Easy for 5b (and not strenuous really), but I found the first pitch a little loo..." 04/May

    Phantom Rib
    "A good quality route, proper VS" 14/Mar

    SS Special
    "For me 5C" 11/Mar

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