Nuremburg and Never Never Land

Adjacent Areas
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Trad and Sport
Sun and Shade
18 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

A great area, with some good modern sport routes and older run-out slabs. Approach (see map on page 60) - Follow the track through the upper quarries, past the Dali's Hole dip, to a circular air-vent just after the path flattens off. The first routes are to the left here. Guidebook page 62.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Hawkeye
A nice route up the arete. A hard move low down to gain the easier ramp-line provides the crux.
 
1 Stars
5c
2
Fresh Air
Ascend the line of bolts on the left of the slab to a lower-off.
 
2 Stars
5c
3
Swiss Air
Just to the right of Fresh Air.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
4
State of the Heart
A technical route up weird angles and slopers with some sharp rock. Use long quick-draws and move right above the last bolt to...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
6c+
5
Tomb Raider
A good two-pitch sport route. Start left of the main slab, just to the right of a concrete slab.1) 5+, 25m. Climb directly...
 
1 Stars
6a
6
362
A decent three-pitch sport route. The name refers to the number of quarrymen who died working in the Dinorwig Quarry. 1) 5,...
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
7
Scheherezade
A technical route with a tough low crux and thin, sustained moves above bolts higher up. About 7a+ as a sport route.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6b
8
Never Never Land
A great route, and one of the better E5s in the quarries, although still a serious one. Start below the stepped roofs and...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6a
9
Khubla Khan
A great route with a desperate crux. Climb up to the bolt easily, pass it directly with difficulty and then move left into the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3 6b
10
Short Stories
Bolts lead you up a lonely line on this slab. Technical, sustained and run-out, with a sting in the tail!
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6a
11
Release the Kraken
A nice bolted route to the left of The Carbon Stage.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b+
12
The Carbon Stage
A good route, although eliminate low down. High up it is more independent, with a jump for the short, or long stretch for the...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6c+
13
Zeus
The steep blocky bulges to a small shelf below a mantel.
 
1 Stars
Dyno
Pumpy
6a+
14
Titan
On the very edge of the buttress is an easy, long and exciting route. After a rock-over to the left, the route moves right onto...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
4c