Carreg Wastad Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Early morning sun
10 mins
Uphill
Windy

The left-hand side of Carreg Wastad has several great mid-grade routes and the easy classics of The Wrinkle and Crackstone Rib making it a popular location. The right side of Carreg Wastad has some steep and strenuous routes that will test both bicep and brain, Shadow Wall and Old Holborn being two of the best.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Skylon
A deservedly popular route following the left edge of the crag, with good gear and belays. 1) 4b, 37m. Climb to a ledge...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
HS
2
The Wrinkle
A classic route with fantastic hexagonal columns on the final bold pitch.1) 18m. Start as for Skylon, but traverse right...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
3
Brute 33
A burly route that requires a determined approach. Start 6m to the left of Unicorn.1) 5b, 12m. Boldly climb the groove and...
 
1 Stars
E3
4
Unicorn
A good, tough route with a tricky second pitch. Start below a groove, just right of the large overhang at 15m. 1) 4b, 15m....
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
5
Elidor
A good but bold route up the blank-looking wall above Lion.1) 4b, 15m. Unicorn P1.2) 5b, 40m. Move right onto the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
6
Lion
A pleasant route, and a good tick for any VS leader. Start as for Unicorn on the left-hand side of the crag.1) 4b, 15m....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS
7
Overlapping Wall
An exciting route with memorable moments. Start to the left of a low overhang just before the base of the crag starts to rise...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1
8
Crackstone Rib Top 50
Fantastic rock and positions make this a must-do route whatever grade you climb. Start about 15m along from where the base of...
 
3 Stars
S
9
Ribstone Crack
A great route that feels tough for the grade. 1) 15m. Crackstone Rib P1.2) 4c, 20m. Move back right into the steeper...
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS
10
Erosion Groove Direct
A tricky crux pitch on which good technique and a bit of arm power are needed.1) 15m. Scramble up past a holly tree, then...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
11
Twisted Sister
A good eliminate on Erosion Groove offering two challenging pitches. Start as for Shadow Wall.1) 5c, 30m. Follow Shadow...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
12
Shadow Wall
Don't be put off by the scrappy start, the traverse under the roof is not to be missed.1) 4a, 27m. Scramble up to the base...
 
3 Stars
Technical
VS
13
Yellow Crack
A big tough crack for big tough climbers!1) 12m. Climb the lower groove of Shadow Wall to the first large tree,...
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
14
Zangorilla
A rather scary route that breaches the roof that every other route avoids. Start three metres right of Shadow Wall at a big...
 
2 Stars
E4
15
Trilon
A poor bushwhacking starts leads to a fantastic pillar. Start below a big yew tree about 15m up the cliff in a groove. 1)...
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
16
Old Holborn
A superbly-exposed finale makes this a tremendous outing, although it is high in the grade.1) 4c, 27m. Start at a small...
 
2 Stars
E1