California Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Trad and Sport
No sun
18 mins
Level
Sheltered

California is one of the quieter areas of the quarries, mainly as it only has harder routes with a more serious feel; California Arete may only be E1, but its a solo! Similarly, the main California Wall has two classic E5s. Approach (see map on page 49) - Follow the Dali's Hole approach and, as you descend back down to the hole, there is a tunnel to your left. Walk through this and follow the narrow path to another tunnel. Upon exiting, marvel at the mighty and cavernous excavation. Guidebook page 52.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tambourine Man
The extremely technical groove.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
2
We Speak No Americano
A great route up the wall which can be done in 2 pitches.1) 5, 10m. Climb the blocky groove to the grassy ledge.2) 6a,...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a
3
Slabs 'R' Us
A very tough line, with tricky, technical and thin moves up to the third bolt, passing this provides the crux. Above the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
4
California Arete
A classic line of the quarries, and a must for any wannabe Slatehead. There is a poor lonely wire above all the hard climbing,...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E1 4c
5
Central Sadness
Possibly the best route of its grade in the quarries. Start below a thin crack to the right of a tapering groove.1) 6a,...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
6
Waves of Inspiration
A long pitch that keeps coming at you to the final move. Start at a bolt belay. Move up and left to gain a crack/break. Follow...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6a