The Waterfront and Dwarf Levels

Adjacent Areas
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Trad and Sport
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

Two pleasant areas, with popular routes, none more so than Mental Lentils and Psychotherapy. Approach Waterfront Level (see map on page 69) - From the carpark, walk towards the quarry and follow the tunnel to the side of the Dive Centre. At the end of the path, cross the stile and 15m in front of you is Mental Lentils. For the other routes, carry on round the pool on the path. aNo Climbing on the prow when the Dive Centre is open (no routes in this guide are affected), and do not go near the barred tunnel above Psychotherapy to avoid disturbing the rare bats that live there. Guidebook page 70.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Psychotherapy
A popular route. Climb the line of weakness to a bolt, make a hard traverse right to gain the crack and a small wire. Carry on...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E2 5c
2
Two Bolts or Not to Be
Technical, powerful and bold! Make technical moves up to the first bolt, then some powerful moves to reach the second, before a...
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
3
Bobby's Groove
A hideously-technical groove that is as baffling as it is good. It did lose a hold a while back, but has seen ascents since...
 
3 Stars
Technical
8a
4
The Weetabix Connection
A good route, although the bolts are hard to clip.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6c+
5
Mental Lentils
A good route that requires a few wires to protect it in addition to the bolts. Start to the right of a tree. Ascend the steep...
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
6
The Monster Kitten
Do you hand or foot traverse it? The route tackles the diagonal hairline crack which is protected by small wires and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5c
7
Moving Being
Brilliant moves and a memorable run-out. Follow the crack to reach the crack/ramp that leads up and right past a bolt. Move...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6b
8
Too Bald to Be Bold
An excellent third pitch for those who have done Mental Lentils and The Monster Kitten. Start below a nose of rock and boldly...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E2 5c
9
Dwarf in the Toilet
A great route with a stunning crux. Start up the steep crack to gain the hanging slab. Follow the crack up to level with the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
10
The Turkey Chant
The fourth pitch on The East Face of Vivian. Move up the wall, there are holds up there and they are good. Once level with the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E2 5c
11
The East Face of Vivian
A combination of Mental Lentils, Monster Kitten, Too Bald to Be Bold, The Turkey Chant and either Last Tango... or Comes the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E2 5c