Plexus

Adjacent Areas
< The Nose  |  None >

Trad
Evening sun
30 mins
Uphill

The rough, slabby rock of the Plexus Buttress is the Welsh answer to gritstone; bring that slab technique. It only receives sun in the summer months and takes drainage so is often wet. When it is in condition it will usually be quite busy. Approach (see map on page 101) - Follow a path from the base of the Nose round into a gully. Ascend this with a short traverse right to boulders below the buttress. A 60m single abseil just about gets you to the base of the crag on rope stretch if you head right. If in doubt traverse across to the Jammed Boulder Gully and descend this with two exciting abseils.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Plexus Top 50
Both technical and adventurous, the classic of the buttress is a superb route and, since the demise of the ancient peg, is now...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
2
Ten Degrees North
One the best crux sequences in the Pass. You may well end up bamboozled or even end up body-bridging Quarryman style across the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E2 5c
3
Nexus
The better of the two E1s, Nexus is an absolute classic and is a good stern test for any aspiring E1 leader. The rock is superb...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
4
The Windmill
Another great route on amazing rock although less popular than its neighbours. 1) 6m. Start as for Plexus, but belay on the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For DINAS MOT

    Ten Degrees North
    "Changed from E2 5c ** to E2 5c ***, 0% of 1 vote for ***" 10/Oct

    Ten Degrees North
    "Very dirty after the appalling summer of 2012. Friction climbing on frictionless..." 07/Sep

    Nexus
    "Well after doing many harder routes I still can not get up this as I can no way ..." 15/Dec

    Diagonal
    "FA is Birtwistle not Birtwhistle." 14/Sep top50

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