The Funky Wall

Adjacent Areas
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DWS
Sun and Shade
40 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

The western end of Fisherman's Ledge is a sheer wall of superb rock that drops straight into the sea and is the preserve of the deep water soloist. Any of the routes on this wall given an S (DWS) grade are best soloed although the option of a trad lead is always a possibility.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
and Captain Blood's Cavern
6c, S1. An atmospheric and beautifully structured classic poised over a hidden sea cavern. Seepage can affect this route. From...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
2
Davey Jones' Lock-off
6c+, S2. At the end of the arch-traverse on ...and Captain Bloods Cavern, step down and continue left to a jutting foot-ledge....
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E4
3
Privateer
7b+, S2. ...and Captain Bloods Cavern big brother, which features a high and exposed crux. Climb the corner above the belay to...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6
4
For Whom the Swell Tolls
7b+, S2. Three cruxes with some steep stuff near the top for maximum pump. Swing right at sea level for 2m and ascend a hard...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6
5
In Too Deep
6c, S1. Link from the horizontal break on For Whom the Swell Tolls to Fathoms.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
6
Fathoms
6b, S1. A rite-of-passage route with its crux at the top. From the starting ledge traverse the break left for 8m to a small...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3
7
Feeding Neptune
7b+, S1. A steep, bouldery route with some big air potential. Start up Donald, Where's Your Trousers then break left across...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E6
8
Donald, Where's Your Trousers
6a+ S1. Follow Fathoms to the small ledge below the big groove. Then break right up a lovely wall to finish up a short flake.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2
9
Amazonia
6c, S1. A great introduction to this sector for soloists. From the ledge gain a secondary small shelf then head leftwards to an...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
E3
10
Amazon Emancipation
Not a DWS. Ascend the very narrow corner directly above the secondary ledge on Amazonia. Belay on this ledge then climb up to a...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6
11
The Rise and Dear Demise of the Funky Nomadic Tribes
Make a tricky start up a slight groove starting from the left-hand side of the main ledge. Awkward to arrange protection.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
12
Ten Thousand Spoons
The wall above the middle of the ledge gives good face climbing on seams and cracks. Hard for the grade.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Fluttery
E2
13
The Friendly Ranger of Durlston Castle
A tricky face climb, starting from the right-hand side of the ledge. The finish is on poor rock but with good gear below.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2
14
Telomere
A very pleasant pitch. From the right-hand side of the ledge taking a rightward-trending line of holds into a small notch at...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1
15
The Talisman
A serious eliminate. Start as for Telomere initially then head out right via a pocketed break (thread) to another thread and...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6
16
Gorillas in the Mist
A quality line which starts as for The Talisman. At the thread at the end of the pocketed traverse, ascend a cracked layback...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
E3
17
Charmed Life
This route gives The Talisman a long direct start for a fine, balanced, hard route. Trend right to the low break (good wires)...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6