Comes the Dervish

Adjacent Areas
< The Waterfront and Dwarf Levels  |  None >

Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

Approach Conscience Slab - Make an even worse step than on the Dervish approach to get across the gap here. Use a cows tail to protect off bolts.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Menopausal Discharge
A good route, that was chipped, although the crux is performed off more than a scratch for a foothold.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a+
2
Manic Strain
Another chipped route, which was 'designed' for tall climbers; shorter people find it much harder. Even for the tall it is...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
8a
3
Gin Palace
An amazing route, a 7b+ chimney into a harder and sustained headwall. Some will walk up the slot, others will just be totally...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
7c
4
Child's Play
Bridge up the groove until you can launch up the wall, via an initially unobvious sequence.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
5
Comes the Dervish
A stellar route, and one deserving of its reputation. Follow the crack-line up for 8m to the first good runner. Easier climbing...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
6
Flashdance
An extremely bold and memorable outing up a vague line of scoops that link Last Tango in Paris and Comes the Dervish. From Last...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6a
7
Last Tango in Paris
Another classic line. Start up the parallel diagonal cracks near the arete and head up and right to a ledge. Some moves over a...
 
3 Stars
E2 5b
8
The Full Monty
Follow the line of seven bolts to a lower-off, quite bold in places. Note that this pitch is 30m and it is advised that the...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
6a
9
Never as Sweet
A combination of routes that makes a great outing. Start up Is it a Crime to its first bolt, and then step left and make a bold...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 6b
10
Is it a Crime
Follow the ramp-line at the bottom of the slab for 6m - good wire as a side runner. Step left onto a good spike runner. Now...
 
2 Stars
E3 5c