Craig Ddu Routes

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Early morning sun
10 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Windy

The left side of Craig Ddu is home to several interesting routes. All but Mabinogion are prone to seepage and are only in condition after a long dry period. The right-hand side of the cliff is generally steeper and the rock can seem suspect in places. Don't let this put you off as the routes are quick-drying and offer fantastic climbing.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mabinogion
A great route, where you can see how the glacier gouged out the pass. Starting just right of the main crack, gain the crack,...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
2
Sea Panther
Often wet but good when dry. Start right of the chimney. Climb up and left then continue more direct, past a hard section, to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1
3
Crown of Thorns
An interesting route tackling a great part of the left side of the cliff. Wait for a good dry-spell since it is dreadful when...
 
1 Stars
Technical
S
4
Zig Zag
Another exciting route taking an airy rising-traverse up the ramps and grooves. Poor when wet, which it usually is!1) 4b,...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
5
Canol
A fantastic excursion through the black walls, facing the challenge of the central and tallest section of wall.1) 4c, 18m....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
E1
6
Black Wall
A good route, although best left for drought conditions.1) 5a, 30m. Start at the base of the huge crack on the right-hand...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
7
Rib and Slab Top 50
A fine introduction to the crag and the only route on which you may have company.1) 30m. Start below the rightwards...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
8
Rift Wall
A super route with a stiff crux on every pitch.1) 4c, 35m. Start in a bay, below the black grooves, 8m right of a fence...
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS
9
Orpheus
An exciting climb starting at two quartz bands.1) 5b, 24m. Move diagonally left to a ledge and climb the small groove and...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E2
10
The Bog of Eternal Stench
A desperate and serious route up a leaning black wall that requires very dry conditions. Start at the top of Yellow Groove P1....
 
2 Stars
E5
11
Yellow Groove
Superb and steep climbing through the imposing yellow wall.1) 16m. Scramble up the right-hand side of the huge grassy...
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS
12
Yellow Wall
A tough and sustained proposition with immaculate climbing and great moves. With careful ropework it can be climbed in one long...
 
2 Stars
Strong
E2
  • Latest Comments

    For CRAIG DDU

    Rib and Slab
    "Changed from ** to VD **, 67% of 3 votes for VD" 18/Jun top50

    Rib and Slab
    "Rib is about Diff, easy moves but holds not always juggy, gear ok. Slab is about..." 12/Apr top50

    Rib and Slab
    "Takes less drainage than other routes here. P2 has 10m of wet grass on top befor..." 25/Feb top50

    Orpheus
    "I also enjoyed this route alot. Possible to abseil in one from the top of the ro..." 10/May

    Orpheus
    "I disagree. P1 is good enough for 1 star and is technically about right for the ..." 23/May

    Canol
    "Good route. Quite technical but not strenuous, despite the symbol" 04/May

    Orpheus
    "Really quite poor. The bottom pitch is easy but serious and completely lacks li..." 25/Apr

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