The Nose

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
20 mins
Uphill
Windy

The Nose of Dinas Mot is a fast-drying slab of perfect mountain rock and is home to some of the best technical pitches in Wales. Good footwork and small wires are essential here. Approach (see map on page 101) - The crag is approached directly from the Cromlech boulder lay-by via a small track up the hill. Getting off The Nose can be tricky, especially in the wet. You can abseil either Eastern or Western Gully, although to reach the ground without having to deal with the bad step at the bottom of Western Gully requires two 60m ropes. Eastern Gully is possible with two 50m ropes although it has a fair amount of loose rock. It is best to be out of the gully when others are abseiling, and the ropes are pulled, as falling rocks have caused serious accidents here.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Cracks Top 50
One of the finest climbs at this grade in the Pass. The final pitch has a tough and exposed 4c mantel, though it can be easily...
 
3 Stars
HS 4c
2
Lorraine
For those who found The Cracks easy enough, Lorraine provides a great sister route.1) 15m. Climb The Cracks to ledges at...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 4c
3
Lorraine Direct
A cracking variation giving a long 40m pitch. From the first belay of Lorraine, go leftwards over the bulge as for the...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
4
GBH
Just above the pinnacle is an innocuous-looking steep crack. Reach it by following The Cracks or Lorraine. Move up into the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E2 5c
5
Direct Route
One for the well-rounded VS leader, although some will find the entrance to the final pitch baffling.1) 4a, 15m. From the...
 
3 Stars
VS 5b
6
Super Direct
Are you a slab-master or a crack-addict? You'll need both skills for this classic.1) 4b, 30m. Start as for Direct Route. At...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
7
Diagonal Top 50
A fantastic, exciting and technical route.1) 5a, 30m. Start as for Direct Route to where it moves left. Follow a groove...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
8
Zeta
An excellent thin slab climb with a desperate steep finish.1) 4b, 30m. As for Super Direct.2) 5c, 15m. Follow Diagonal...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E3 6a
9
Stairway to Heaven
A good route with a fierce pull on pitch two, and a tricky groove on the last. Start below and just left of the large scoop...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
10
West Rib
A good HVS that can feel much harder if you aren't careful with your route-finding.1) 4b, 18m. Start 4m left of the wall....
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
11
Western Slabs
A good route that gets the evening sun in the height of summer. Start just left of the dry-stone wall by a stile.1) 4b,...
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 4c
12
The Chain
A superb variation to the Western Slabs or Western Rib final pitches. Start below the central crack in the tombstone and follow...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
13
Slow Ledge Climb
A superb way to continue your adventure.1) 15m. Scramble up and right towards the quartzy pinnacle above the descent gully....
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
14
Black Spring
A good technical climb but P2 is often wet. 1) 4a, 15m. Climb up easy ground to the terrace.2) 5a, 25m. Gain a crack...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For DINAS MOT

    Ten Degrees North
    "Changed from E2 5c ** to E2 5c ***, 0% of 1 vote for ***" 10/Oct

    Ten Degrees North
    "Very dirty after the appalling summer of 2012. Friction climbing on frictionless..." 07/Sep

    Nexus
    "Well after doing many harder routes I still can not get up this as I can no way ..." 15/Dec

    Diagonal
    "FA is Birtwistle not Birtwhistle." 14/Sep top50

    Plexus
    "Pitch 2 is bold - could be E1 5a on its own" 07/Jun top50

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