Clogwyn y Grochan Routes

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The tall left-hand side of the crag has a long diagonal corner/groove running up it. This is the classic Nea. The central section of the Grochan is fiercely steep. It has a few wandering mid-grade routes, but most of the climbs are stiff challenges. The right-hand side of the Grochan sports several tough HVSs and a couple of belting E3 lines.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Phantom Rib
A great and popular climb up a series of ribs on the left-hand side of the buttress. Start at the base of a chimney that leads...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS
2
Nea
A classic outing taking the central line of the buttress with some devious moves. Start on the large ledge gained by a scramble...
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS
3
Spectre
The monstrous third pitch is good value HVS. Start at the toe of the left-hand buttress.1) 4c, 28m. Climb the slab to gain...
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS
4
Spectrum
A hard route with a steep start and a great second pitch.1) 5b, 12m. Climbing up to the shattered overhanging groove....
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
E2
5
SS Special
A route of two halves; superb crack and face climbing followed by a stiff pull through the roof. Follow the right-hand crack in...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E2
6
Sickle
A good route, but high in the grade.1) 5a, 20m. Start either side of the large flake. From the top of the flake, climb the...
 
2 Stars
HVS
7
Venturi Effect
Start up the left-hand side of the Sickle flake and climb the groove direct via eye-wateringly-wide bridging, very small wires...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
8
Brant Direct Top 50
A brutal fight for those who can't jam or bridge, and just a mere brawl for those that can. The central groove gives this...
 
3 Stars
Technical
HVS
9
Cockblock Top 50
A fiercely-technical and powerful route with hard and bold climbing protected by small gear (micro-wires handy). Start right of...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E5
10
The Pump
A good route with a difficult to protect lower section that feels hard for E4. Start just left of Slape Direct and pull left...
 
2 Stars
E4
11
Slape Direct
Short and fierce. Gain the leftward-slanting crack and then a small quartz ledge on the right. This provides a launch pad for...
 
2 Stars
E2
12
First Amendment
The parallel line to Slape Direct gives a contrasting route. Start below the crack 3 metres to the right of Slape...
 
2 Stars
E2
13
Brant
A great route in its lower parts. Start just above a collection of boulders below a V-groove. Most people only climb the first...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS
14
Stroll On Top 50
Pumpy climbing on good rock and gear. Start below a corner 5m right of Brant. Make a tricky move up and right from the base of...
 
3 Stars
Strong
E3
15
Hangover
A superb route with two contrasting pitches. High in the grade. Start as for Stroll On.1) 5b, 20m. Make a tough move to...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
16
Quasar Top 50
Short but steep. The crux holds on the headwall sometimes seep. Climb the groove (surprisingly awkward) to the overhang. Pass...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E3 6a
17
Karwendel Wall
A cruxy route with interesting moves on good rock. Start just right of a small spike, about 4 metres left of the more obvious...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5b
18
Kaisergebirge Wall
A great route that has the crux where it should be... at the top! Follow the ramp-line leftwards for about 25m to a resting...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
19
Wind
Another superb but tough Grochan HVS. Start just to the right of the ramp-line of Kaisergebirge Wall, below an intermittent...
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For CLOGWYN Y GROCHAN

    Spectrum
    "Changed from E2 5c ** to E2 5c ***, no votes" 10/Oct

    Hangover
    "Easy for 5b (and not strenuous really), but I found the first pitch a little loo..." 04/May

    Phantom Rib
    "A good quality route, proper VS" 14/Mar

    SS Special
    "For me 5C" 11/Mar

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