Main Cliff

Adjacent Areas
< Wen Zawn  |  Upper Tier >

Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Tidal

A committing area to reach, but the effort of the approach is rewarded by a collection of fine routes. Approach (see map on page 278) - From the North Stack approach, walk up the track to a plateau, and aim for the left-hand col. Move down the gully but take a vague line leading left from the gully (looking out), until you come to a small grass platform above the cliff with a large block belay. Abseil down the left gully looking out to sea. If using 50m ropes, re-belay off a spike on a grassy terrace. The routes can also be reached from the Main Cliff by a long sea-level traverse. Mid-to-low tide required and calm seas. Guidebook page 286.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pentathol
A great route, that is one of the easier lines on Main Cliff, however the approach and climbing, make it a very committing...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5b
2
The Big Groove
A great route, with some exciting climbing up the big groove bounding the left side of the steeper section of the Main Cliff....
 
3 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
3
Sebastopol
A good strenuous line on the left edge of the main section. Start 15m right of the Big Groove, at the base of a short...
 
3 Stars
E5 6a
4
Citadel
A superb and sustained line with a tricky first pitch and a great crack on the second. Start 10m left of the chimney of...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
5
The Hustler
Another good route, that takes a hidden corner, at the extreme end of what is considered Main Cliff. 1) 5a, 20m. Traverse...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5b
6
Mammoth
Another of the Main Cliff's big E5s. Start at a left-facing corner just beyond the start of Dinosaur on the sea-level approach,...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
7
Mestizo
A great route that can be climbed in one long and sustained pitch. The route is reached via the first pitch of The...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
8
Dinosaur
A good introduction to the Main Cliff E5s. The name comes from the long neck and a small brain you'll need for this route....
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
9
Heroin
A tough route, and one that is steeped in traditional climbing. Start below the horrific-looking overhanging chimney groove....
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
E1 5b
10
Alien/Positron
One of the most striking lines on the Main Cliff. This combination gives sensational climbing, by tackling the best pitches...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6b
11
Nightride
Less popular than it deserves - the climbing is sustained and bold in places. Start to the left of Scavenger near the base of...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E1 5b
12
Positron
An amazing route, and probably the most coveted E5 on the Main Cliff. The third pitch is a totally 'out there' experience that...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
13
Scavenger
A real adventure that has some stunning climbing in wild situations. Start 15m to the right of the large corner/chimney of...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
14
The Rat Race
Steep, sustained and frightening. Start from the left side of the Gogarth pinnacle. At high tide the ledge at the top of P1 can...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
15
The Assassin
Features some great open face climbing on P2. Start 3m right of Scavenger at the foot of the left-hand of three cracks.1)...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
16
Gogarth
The first route climbed here and by far the most popular route on the Main Cliff. Start at the pinnacle that blocks the way...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5b
17
Resolution Direct
An excellent route, much better than the indirect version.1) 5b, 43m. Start down and right of the first pitch of Gogarth....
 
3 Stars
E2 5b
18
Cordon Bleau
A long girdle of this magnificent wall that takes in the atmosphere of the place at a relatively amenable grade. The climbing...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a