Adjacent Areas
< New Dawn Area | The Conger Area >
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
40 minsAbseil
Windy
A rarely travelled wall covered with some fairly hard trad routes and a trio of DWSs on its right-hand end. Guidebook page 342.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Tempting Truancy Excellent fingery wall climbing taking the face 4m left of Aubergine but with negligible gear. FA. Crispin Waddy,... | 2 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
2 |
Terminal One A very serious eliminate based on the grit-like arete just left of Aubergine. A skyhook and poor thread protect the upper... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6a |
3 |
Aubergine Climb the big flake-crack in the corner past good gear and one stubborn section. | 2 Stars Technical | HVS 5a |
4 |
Mile High Club A cracking test-piece. From the bottom of the ramp on Aubergine, step right and climb up flutings to the break (gear). Undercut... | 1 Stars Strong Crimpy Fluttery | E6 6c |
5 |
Into You (Like a Train) The steep, seamed bulge 3m right of Aubergine is very technical though with some good wires when really needed. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E5 6b |
6 |
Armed Insurgence The centre of the black wall trending right via an intermittent crack to a steep finish. | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
7 |
Pariah A good, bold line. From a small ramp 5m right of Armed Insurgence (wire), follow side-pulls direct until serious moves left... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
8 |
A Taste for Danger The shallow black corner rising above a break in the ledge is harder than it looks. The gear is sparse but good. Exit... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E3 6a |
9 |
La Quebrada Strenuous but reasonably safe. Start at a corner 3m right of A Taste for Danger above a small belay ledge. Climb into the... | Pumpy | E3 6a |
10 |
Whack your Porcupine Climb the steep, tapering groove 3m right of the area of steep rooflets. There is no real belay ledge at the bottom. | E1 5b | |
11 |
Barry's Route Move left to the corner/groove. | E1 5c | |
12 |
The Caretaker A serious headpoint taking a good line up the face left of Ruurd Ruum to arrive at an easy exit groove. Hard climbing above a... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6a |
13 |
Ruurd Ruum An underrated pitch that starts as for The Caretaker then takes a fine series of rightward-slanting cracks to an exit groove.... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 5c |
14 |
Leap of Faith 6b, S2. The arete left of the cave gives fine climbing. Move leftwards around the bulge. Be aware of a submerged rock at the... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
15 |
Tsunami 6c+, S1. The direct finish to A Bridge Too Far. An exposed and bouldery crux through the roof at the top. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery Loose | E4 6a |
16 |
A Bridge Too Far 6a, S1. A good line but with a friable finish. Start at the large corner left of the Conger Cave. Climb the corner to a roof... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery Loose | E1 5b |