Expressway Wall

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Flowstone Wall >

Sport
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

The Expressway Wall sees less traffic than the other sections of Penmaen Head but has a couple of its best routes. The rock is on the whole good and the climbing is characterised by sustained wall climbing. The wall is less sheltered than the other areas and is noisier as it is closer to the A55 dual carriageway. It can be windy here but the rock dries very quickly after rainfall. Approach (see map on page 368) - Walk along the base of the crag and then take a small path upwards that crosses a broken fence before traversing a ledge to access the base of the wall.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Long Run Home
The far left-hand line is a pleasant introduction to this wall.
 
1 Stars
6a
2
That's Enough New Routes For Now
Go left at the second bolt. Heading straight up is 7a.
 
1 Stars
6c
3
Fathers For Justice
Fine climbing. Move left at the third bolt.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
4
The Quarrywoman
An excellent pitch that keeps the difficulties coming right up until the final moves to the lower-off. One of the best here.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
5
Hotel 70 Degrees
A tight line that ends at a slab on the right of the steep white upper wall taken by The Quarrywoman.
 
1 Stars
6b
6
Clwyd MC
A move between the 2nd and 3rd bolts is tricky for the short.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6a+
7
Ryan's Route
Start at the left-hand ground level iron bar. Worthwhile and sustained climbing up the shallow depression.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a+
8
Kneeshaw Lupton
Start at the right-hand ground level iron bar. The upper section of wall climbing has a frustratingly thin sequence.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
9
The Mankind Initiative
The best pitch on this side of the wall. Start up the lower wall of Kneeshaw Lupton, which leads to a steep entry into the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
10
Paranoia Crack
Climb to and then up the crack/groove in the upper wall.
 6b
11
Adams Exams
Move right out of Paranoia Crack to finish up a crack in the upper wall.
 6b