Penmaenrhos Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
4 mins
Sheltered

The right-hand end of the wall has some steeper and slightly tougher lines that are a mix of cracks, overlaps, corners and aretes. The wall is very sheltered and dries quickly after rainfall and can have large dry sections during rainfall although seepage does occur. Approach (see map on page 368) - The routes are on the steep wall that runs right from where the approach path meets the cliff. Guidebook page 374.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Discomknockerated
Make steep moves from the left or right up to some large stuck-on holds. Follow these then make a thin traverse left and up to...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
2
Flaschenburste Crack
Gain the long crack that starts left of the low overhang. Take care when passing some unstable blocks at the start.
 
1 Stars
6a+
3
Ambergis
The first bolt is above the low overhang. Pull past the overhang and climb the wall just to the left of Helyg Crack.
 6b+
4
Helyg Crack
The line of thin cracks is a good pitch.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a
5
Desiderata
Move up the line of staggered overlaps and gain the left-leading ramp - hard. Follow Red Handed for a few moves then stretch...
 
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
6c
6
The Gimp Crimp
A tight line at the start. Make some stiff pulls to gain the ramp of Red Handed and finish direct.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
7
Red Handed
The leftward-slanting ramp.
 
1 Stars
6a
8
Intruder
A decent pitch that improves as height is gained. Climb past a blocky ledge and continue up the wall above.
 
1 Stars
5+
9
The Trouble With Girls
The first bolt is very high. Climb up ledges to the initial bolt and then tackle the series of overlaps above via sustained and...
 
1 Stars
6b+
10
Sir Crimpalot
The wall past numerous narrow overlaps has one tough section.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
11
Top Secret
The wall, slim groove and overhang is a worthwhile line and steeper than it first appears.
 
1 Stars
6c
12
Terces Pot
The arete and thin crack just to its left has good climbing.
 
1 Stars
6c
13
Broken Blackbird
The narrow wall/corner right of the arete only has one bolt.
 5
14
Scared Shipless
The left-hand line on the short grey wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
15
Another One Bites The Dust
Climb the wall and arete.
 
Technical
6c
16
Steak Slice
The undulating groove at the far right-hand side of the cliff.
 5