The Conger Area

Adjacent Areas
< Armed Insurgence Area  |  Squid Area >

DWS
Lots of sun!
40 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

The Conger Cave Area is the show-piece of all the deep water soloing venues in Dorset. The majority of the routes provide exciting challenges and have good viewing galleries for spectators, plus high diving areas, adding to the interest. Like the Funky Wall, this area is the preserve of the deep water soloist, and roped ascents are rarely, if ever, undertaken.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Crime Wave
6b, S1. The face left of Furious Pig. It makes a good descent solo when familiar with the area.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
2
Furious Pig
6b+, S1. Climb the left-hand pillar and flake to The Conger exit.
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
3
The Great Shark Hunt
7a, S1. The right-hand groove from the hanging pillar start. One of the best deep water solos around.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
E4 6a
4
The Appearing
7a+, S1. Approach by boat. Start in the back of the cave at a bottomless chimney on the left. Climb to a good ledge where a...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
5
The Vanishing
7a+ S1. Approach by boat, or from below The Conger, enter the cave by ducking under a low roof and traversing wet rock to a...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
6
The Conger Top 50
6b, S1. Memorable. A fine climb in a very atmospheric position. Start by traversing in along the break to a niche just before...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
7
Snap, Crackle and Plop
6b+, S2. A direct finish above the chimney of The Conger.
2 user comments
 
Loose
E3 5c
8
Jellied
6b+, S1. Another variation finish above the chimney of The Conger. Break rightwards above the big roof to a prow.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
9
The Drowning Pool
7b+, S2. Make some hard moves through the left-hand side of the roof, finishing on the last section of Jellied.
 
2 Stars
Strong
E6 6b
10
Red Bully
25m. Follow The Appearing to the good ledge. Move leftwards over a slab and bulge to join The Vanishing just before it reaches...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
E5 6a
11
Swordfish Trombones
7a+, S2. A wild trip through the roofs above the hanging slabs of The Conger. The big roof provides most of the excitement with...
 
3 Stars
Strong
E5 6b
12
The Musharagi Tree
6b, S2. The diagonal hanging slab which can be started direct via the hanging arete (harder). Start at the niche of The Conger.
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
13
Halcyon Days
Not a DWS. Tackle the fine overhanging corner above a good belay ledge to the finish of The Musharagi Tree.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
14
Herman Borg's Basic Pulley Slippage
7b+, S2. The left arete of the side wall is very technical.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
15
Freeborn Man Top 50
6c, S1. A classic, with a soft landing. From halfway along the approach traverse, climb the slab and then the steep pocketed...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
16
Troubled Waters
5, S1. A line up the wall right of Freeborn Man is popular as a warm-up for the bigger challenges to the left.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
17
Helix Direct
The crack just right of Troubled Waters to join Helix.
 S 4a
18
Helix
A superb climb for its grade - solid and varied. It spirals leftwards up a hidden slab above the Conger Cave.
 
2 Stars
D
19
Freeborn Borg
18m. Break left just below the crux of Freeborn Man to finish on Herman Borg. (S1)
 
DWS
Technical
E5 6b
20
Freeborn Direct
17m. After the crux, exit direct onto the slab. (S1)
1 user comment
 
DWS
E4 6a