Direct Route

Adjacent Areas
< Hawk's Nest Buttress  |  None >

Trad
Evening sun
60 mins
Uphill
Windy

A fine bastion of Chamonix-style rock, with a great selection of lower and middle grade routes. The main draw is the five-pitch classic of Direct Route which is likely to be busy when conditions are good. Approach (see map on page 178) - Do a route on Alphabet Slab or walk up the gully just to the left to The Capstan. Scramble right (looking in) over the top of the buttress and above the wide and loose Main Gully. Continue into East Gully and descend this. Guidebook page 180.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Slab Route
A neat excursion spiralling up the left-hand side of the face. The route has long been popular with beginners. It is described...
 
2 Stars
VD
2
Direct Route
A classic outing, varied and interesting with a devious but logical line. Very popular and it only has a couple of hard...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
3
Kaya
A wild route in an impressive position taking the huge arete. For those climbing at this level, the steep crack just round to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6b
4
Lot's Wife/Left-hand Crack
A good route taking a great line up the cracked right-hand face of the grand pillar. Start 3m right of the large Capstan...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS 5a
5
Lot's Groove/Right-hand Crack
A great pitch up the steep, shallow groove overlooking the gully.1) 26m. As for Lot's Wife.2) 5a, 30m. Move out right...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
HVS 5b
6
Chasm Route
The character building rifts on the right can be climbed in as many as six short pitches. Start 3m right of the large 'Capstan'...
 
2 Stars
VD