Castell Helen

Adjacent Areas
< Red Wall  |  Yellow Wall >

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
3 mins
Level
Abseil

A popular area, as it is friendlier than most other Gogarth crags with some great mid-grade routes on solid rock! Approach (see map on page 296) - From the carpark, head towards Elin's Tower, a vague descent path leads down the right-hand side of the tower to a small racking-up spot. The abseil is around 60m. If you are on shorter ropes you can split it with an extra belay on the half-height ledge on your ab rope and some old pegs, continuing down the lower section on your climbing ropes. Take care with your ropework if doing this so that you can retrieve the upper ab rope later from the top. Only at high tides during big seas do the belays get washed by the swell.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Lighthouse Arete
A great route that winds its way up the left arete of the crag. It is mild at the grade but quite adventurous. Abseil to a...
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
2
Lighthouse Arete Direct
The direct version is slightly harder. Start at the triangular niche.1) 4c, 32m. Move left along the easy traverse and,...
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
3
Blanco
A decent route although it is run-out in places. Start from the triangular niche.1) 5a, 42m. Head straight up the groove to...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
4
Pel
Start either in the niche as for Lighthouse Arete, or take a hanging stance just to the right. 1) 4c, 30m. Move up and...
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
5
Castell Helen Girdle
A long and impressive traverse that finishes on Yellow Wall. Start in the triangular niche as for Pel.1) 4c, 30m. As for...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
6
North West Passage
A great route with a fantastic final pitch. Start from a small niche directly below the left end of the half-height ledge....
 
3 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
7
Rap
Another great VS. Start from a small ledge and stance below the centre of the half-height ledge. The first pitch feels quite...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
VS 5a
8
Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird
A great route which takes an intricate line up the cliff by combining the best bits of three other routes. Start below the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E2 5b
9
Hanging Out at Glastonbury
A superb route that enables the brilliant pitch of the hard route Free Stone Henge, E7 to be reached at a more amenable...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 5c