Chain Gang Wall

Adjacent Areas
< The Deep Fix  |  String of Pearls >

Trad and Sport
No sun
0 mins
Roadside
Restricted Access

One of the best walls at Upper Pen Trwyn, which is laced with high quality trad and sport lines in the higher grades. Approach (see map on page 324) - Drive along the Marine Drive around the bend below Excursion Wall and to the pole by the road. a No climbing before 6pm, on all Bank Holiday weekends and during the 6 week summer holiday.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Corinthian Groove
The direct start to Foulish, Goulish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
8b
2
Foulish, Goulish
A tremendous technical route up the blank wall right of the huge flake. Start up Mr. Olympia then break out left.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7b+
3
Mr.Olympia
Brilliant sustained climbing with good protection. Almost a clip-up at 7b. It is possible to stick-clip the thread to protect...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
4
Iron Man
An eliminate between Chain Gang and Mr. Olympia. Supersedes an old route called Olympus Trip which connected the two.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
5
Chain Gang
The classic of the wall. Start up a small flake and follow the line of weakness up and left across the wall.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
6
More Genius
Start as for Chain Gang but move right then climb direct.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
7
Precious Time
The right-hand side of the wall finishing at a crack.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
8
Kanly
This delightful route is slightly bold but technically straightforward. Finish over a little roof.
 
2 Stars
E2 5b
9
Bauxed
From the same groove as Kanly moving right onto the wall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For UPPER PEN TRWYN

    String of Pearls
    "The resin around the second bolt, which (just about) protects the crux if you fa..." 01/Jun

    Bauxed
    "If this is HVS then a wholesale revision of all UK grades is needed!" 19/May

    Magical Ring
    "Changed from 7a+ to 7a+ **, no votes" 11/Oct

    Search for comments