Polaris Area

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  The Great Cave >

Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
45 mins
Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access

Bird ban 01/03-31/06 (rts 8-10)


Left of the great cave are some very impressive trad routes. All bar one are centred on a huge bottomless groove (the main pitch of Polaris). All are worthwhile expeditions in tremendously exposed positions. The rock quality is mostly good, and the gear reasonable. Prusik loops are strongly advised on all routes here. Guidebook page 326.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Frank's Little Secret
A fine climb on good rock, starting from the base of the abseil. Now described in a single pitch and upgraded from...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
2
Polaris Top 50
A Swanage classic. The climbing on the upper pitches is steep and exposed, but the protection is reasonable.1) 5b, 30m....
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
3
Exchange of Fire
A well-positioned route based on the left arete of the Polaris groove. It is steep, but has good rests. Dynamically climb the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
4
Nuke
An exposed climb up the flake, trending left onto the arete, and finishing more easily on slightly suspect holds.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
5
Bolt the Blue Sea
A meaty number tackling a very steep crack in the left wall. Climb the back of the corner and pull over a bulge to join...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
6
Weapons of Sound
Well protected. From the right-hand side of the stance, move rightwards to a pocket-line (thread). Gain a hand ledge and go up...
 
Pumpy
E5 6a
7
Enter the Void
A superb climb in an awesome position, mainly on good pocket holds. Start out as for Weapons of Sound past the thread. From the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
8
The Aquatic Ape
The awesome undercut pillar and roof left of The Schwarzchild Radius provides one of the most outrageous trad routes at...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b