Statement of Youth

Adjacent Areas
< Under the Boardwalk  |  Face Race >

Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Downhill
8 mins
Tidal
Seepage
Sheltered

The routes get easier the further right you go. The right-hand section offers sustained wall-climbing after steep but easy pulls over the wave-washed lower bulges. In still and humid weather the steep routes can be greasy and unclimbable in such conditions. The best conditions are often found when it is fresh and with a light breeze blowing. The right-hand wall routes are less affected by greasy conditions. Approach (see map on page 347) - The routes are centred around the most severely overhanging section of the cliff and the wall immediately to its right. Mid-to-low tide is required to get to the base of the routes. Guidebook page 354.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Wild Understatement
A double variant on Statement of Youth, coming in from the left and finishing with a hard move out left to gain a hanging...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
2
Youthanasia
A long hard route at the upper limit of the grade. The line breaks out left from the Statement of Youth traverse into some very...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
8b
3
Statement of Youth Top 50
One of the original and best hard UK sport climbs which paved the way for limestone climbing in the 80s and beyond. After an...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a
4
Rompsville
A route of two halves, featuring a steep juggy start and a super thin and technical finish, which is a bit sharp on the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7c
5
A Fair Sized Fish
A double direct on Rompsville. After Rompsville is crossed, the holds unfortunately get seriously sharp.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7c+
6
Night Glue
A classic of the Orme which has a bit of everything, alternating between steep pulls and technical sequences with good rests in...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a+
7
Martha
A short intense direct start to Night Glue. The line on the upper wall is a bit contrived and most end up just climbing Night...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
7c
8
Wall of Voodoo
Good climbing that ascends the wall right of the curving overlap, although the bolts are well spaced on the upper crux.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b
9
Jacuzzi Jive
Probably the best of the trad routes on Lower Pen Trwyn, which involves some fine fingery climbing and a hard crux section at...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E4 6a
10
Twisting by the Pool
Another good wall climb with some sharp holds at the bottom and an excellent upper wall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E4 6a
11
Voodoo Child
An eliminate line crossing an old trad route Tokolshe Man. The upper wall is thin.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
12
Passengers
Start as for Voodoo Child and climb left of the pillar. Very eliminate in nature.
 6a+
13
The Pink Pinkie Snuffs It
The quality starts again with this technical wall climb.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
14
Café Libre
A controversial route (chipped near the top) that tackles the impressive open scoop. Painful on the skin.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c+