Wen Zawn

Adjacent Areas
< Flytrap Zawn  |  Main Cliff >

Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down
20 mins
Abseil
Tidal

A great area with a couple of excellent routes, Britomartis makes a fine addition to your day should you breeze across Dream of White Horses and want another workout. Approach (see map on page 278) - From the North Stack approach, walk up the track to a plateau, then head to the right-hand col straight ahead of you. Head down the gully to the promontory to view Wen Slab. The Britomartis Wall is accessed by an abseil off a large block at the end of the promontory. The starting ledge is above high tide but is best avoided if there is a big swell running. Guidebook page 282.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Spider Wall
A fine line that takes the blank-looking wall to the left of Britomartis. Start as for Britomartis.1) 5a, 40m. Move down...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5a
2
Britomartis
An excellent route with two contrasting pitches: one steep and burly, the other more balancy and delicate. Start by abseiling...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 4c
3
T Rex
A stunning climb for the grade. Its needs a long dry spell for the initial crack to not be damp. A late-afternoon ascent will...
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
E3 5c
4
Wen
The crack that runs the full height of the crag shows the line of this route. The top is very loose and can be dangerous for...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
5
The Concrete Dream
An excellent combination that gives a great way across the slab combining the amazing main pitch of Concrete Chimney, with the...
 
3 Stars
HVS 5b
6
The Quartz Icicle
Another great route, that takes the quartz band that looks like a lightning bolt frozen in geology. Start by abseiling to the...
 
3 Stars
E2 5b
7
Zeus
A direct line with intricate climbing that leads to an exposed finale. Sustained but never desperate with plenty of fiddly gear...
 
2 Stars
E2 5b
8
A Dream of White Horses
This is what most people come to climb, and it is a great outing, one of the best in the World! The original route is described...
 
3 Stars
HVS 4c