Quartz Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill
20 mins
Sheltered

The most popular sections of Holyhead Mountain are the two buttresses on the right-hand end. These are home to a host of steep and sustained lines including the fantastic King Bee Crack and popular Breaking the Barrier. Guidebook page 315.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Andover
A slightly scrappy but obvious line that tackles the vertical crack-line 6m to the left of Tension.
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
2
Tension
A pleasant climb that has ample holds and gear. Start below the central corner, and climb it to below the large roof. Follow...
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
3
Black And Tan
A decent line. Start as for Tension, but follow the crack rightwards below the large roof until you are met with the final...
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
4
Breaking the Barrier
A great route up an impeccable slab, and one that is recommended for,.... breaking the E1 barrier! Start a few metres right of...
 
3 Stars
E1 5b
5
The Echoes
A direct version of Breaking the Barrier with a tough start. Start 6m right of Breaking the Barrier near the toe of the...
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
6
Bruvers
Steep, strenuous and well protected, if you can take your hands off long enough to place the gear. Start down and right of the...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
7
Tempest
Climb the groove over on the far right side of the buttress.
 
1 Stars
S 4a