Mousetrap Zawn

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Left-hand Red Wall >

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
4 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access

A fascinating area, one of the more adventurous places at Gogarth, featuring interesting climbing on even more interesting rock. Convoluted folds of quartzite and sandstone, intruded by quartz make for one crazy medium to climb on. Approach (see map on page 296) - From the carpark, head towards Elin's Tower, but turn right just before the viewing area and traverse across the top of the Red Walls, to reach a large spike at the far end. Make a 100m abseil from here into the zawn on the right (looking out) - easy if you have a 100m rope. If you don't then make a single abseil of 50m to a rock step and then a second retrievable abseil off the end of this first ab rope using your climbing ropes. Don't be tempted to go over the rock step with your first rope since the knot you tie in the end may well jam in a crack when you try and pull the ab rope up at the end of the day. It is possible at low tide and in calm seas to descend the steps to the South Stack lighthouse and, at the gap in the rock, head through and make a very committing down-climb to near sea level and traverse in to the zawn from there. Most of the routes can be reached in all states of tide although the start of Green Slab requires a mid-to-low tide. aThere is a seasonal restriction due to nesting birds between the 1st Feb - 31st July. Guidebook page 298.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Green Slab
Good open climbing up the huge slab in the centre of the zawn. It should not be approached lightly; this is a very serious...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
HVS 4c
2
Mousetrap
One of the most amazing routes at Gogarth. The climbing is involved, adventurous but never desperate, and the geology is simply...
 
3 Stars
Loose
E2 5a
3
Mantrap
A totally absorbing route, the main thrust of which is the compelling and rather frightening chimney.1) 5a, 45m. As for...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
Graunchy
E3 5b