The Great Cave

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
45 mins
Up and Down
Tidal

The collection of awe-inspiring routes in the Great Cave are some of the most overhanging climbs in Britain. In recent years a number of new lines have been added, and re-bolting is ongoing.
Approach - Descend from the quarry to a sea-level ledge below Giantslayer. The rest of the routes are reached by a traverse (insitu rope) along the low fault-line in the side wall.
Tides - You can reach the routes at high tide, but it is better and easier at low tide. Keep away in rough seas.
a Restriction - No climbing from 1st March to 31st July due to nesting birds.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Laughing Arthur
One of the largest roof climbs in Britain. The first and third pitches have not been repeated and the second pitch can still be...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Loose
E8
2
Coma 2
18m. From the second belay on Laughing Arthur, climb direct past 3 bolts and 2 pegs to reach the belay on Infinite Gravity.
 
Pumpy
E5 6b
3
Forever Laughing
A safer and fully-bolted version of Laughing Arthur.1) 7c, 25m. Start up Infinite Gravity, then break left to climb...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
4
Endeavour
Dorset's hardest. Start up Infinite Gravity until level with the 10th bolt, swing out left past a large hanging spike and...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8c
5
Infinite Gravity
The outrageous ship's prow arete overhangs at 45° for most of its length. It has three hard sections with shakeouts in between....
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
6
Naked and Savage
A big, steep pitch. Well protected by nuts and a few pegs. Start on the right-hand side of the boulder beach, below the...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E7
7
Procrastinating Giant
A big challenge.1) 6a, 25m. Start up Naked and Savage to its niche, then traverse out right via an overlap to a hanging...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E6
8
Monsters of Rock
A very impressive line taking the centre of the huge black wall and the groove above, bisecting Procrastinating Giant....
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E7
9
Giantslayer
Really good climbing in an exposed position. Quite well protected but very pumpy with a strenuous finish. Watch out for rope...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5
10
Cold Empty Gun
A direct line avoiding the loop on Giantslayer. It is bold and sustained up the blind crack - take plenty of small wires.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6
11
Coercri
A varied climb up the centre of the west-facing wall, starting at a groove/ramp just right of Giantslayer. Well...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E4
12
Cosa Nostra
Good exposed climbing up the right-hand arete of the west face. Climb a bulging crack on the seaward side, then move onto the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2