Adjacent Areas
< Polaris Area | The Quarry >
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down
45 minsTidal
Windy
Restricted Access
Bird ban 01/03-31/06 (rts 8-10)
The collection of awe-inspiring routes in the Great Cave are some of the most overhanging climbs in Britain. In recent years a number of new lines have been added, and re-bolting is ongoing. Guidebook page 329.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Schwarzechild Radius A vast, arching line through the overhangs on the left-hand side of the cave including an 8m roof crack. Crawl leftwards from... | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 7c+ |
2 |
Laughing Arthur One of the largest roof climbs in Britain. The first and third pitches have not been repeated and the second pitch can still be... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy Loose | E8 6b |
3 |
Coma 2 18m. From the second belay on Laughing Arthur, climb direct past 3 bolts and 2 pegs to reach the belay on Infinite Gravity. | Pumpy | E5 6b |
4 |
Forever Laughing A safer and fully-bolted version of Laughing Arthur.1) 7c, 25m. Start up Infinite Gravity, then break left to climb the... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7c+ |
5 |
Endeavour Dorset's hardest. Start up Infinite Gravity until level with the 10th bolt, swing out left past a large hanging spike and... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8c |
6 |
Infinite Gravity The outrageous ship's prow arete overhangs at 45° for most of its length. It has three hard sections with shakeouts in between.... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a+ |
7 |
Naked and Savage A big, steep pitch. Well protected by nuts and a few pegs. Start on the right-hand side of the boulder beach, below the... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E7 6b |
8 |
Procrastinating Giant A big challenge.1) 6a, 25m. Start up Naked and Savage to its niche, then traverse out right via an overlap to a hanging... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | E6 6a |
9 |
Monsters of Rock A very impressive line taking the centre of the huge black wall and the groove above, bisecting Procrastinating Giant.... | 3 Stars Pumpy | E7 6b |
10 |
Giantslayer Really good climbing in an exposed position. Quite well protected but very pumpy with a strenuous finish. Watch out for rope... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
11 |
Cold Empty Gun A direct line avoiding the loop on Giantslayer. It is bold and sustained up the blind crack - take plenty of small wires. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6a |
12 |
Coercri A varied climb up the centre of the west-facing wall, starting at a groove/ramp just right of Giantslayer. Well... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
13 |
Cosa Nostra Good exposed climbing up the right-hand arete of the west face. Climb a bulging crack on the seaward side, then move onto the... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
