Craig yr Wrysgan

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
10 mins
Uphill

The closest crag to the carpark in Tanygrisiau, but never the most popular. Despite having several pleasant routes it doesn't have the diversity of the other crags, but it is well worth a visit, if only for the descent. Approach (see map on page 261) - From the carpark, head towards the waterfall and along the path to gain the power-station access road below the escarpment. Follow the road along the base of the cliff (avoid the temptation to head up direct!) to where an incline comes down through a tunnel at the far end of the crag. From here, walk back up and right towards the crag. Head left to the incline and descend down through your own private tunnel.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
White Streak/Honeysuckle Corner
A good combination of pitches that makes the most of the best rock. Start below a recess down and just right of the white slab....
 
2 Stars
HS 4b
2
Y Gelynen
A pleasant route, but feels bold for the grade. Start below the V-groove of Dorcon.1) 30m. Scramble up left to the base of...
 
2 Stars
VD
3
Condor
This crack provides a more testing start to Y Gelynen. Start by scrambling up to the base of the V-groove of Dorcon.1) 5b,...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
4
Dorcon
Scrappy in parts but it has some good climbing. Start by scrambling up to the base of the V-groove.1) 4a, 13m. Ascend the...
 
1 Stars
VS 4b