North Stack Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
20 mins
Abseil
Tidal

A cliff with a massive reputation and home to many serious chop routes, although there are some easier offerings too. The routes here are more about technique than power. Don't be deceived by that though, you will get pumped even if it just through fear! Approach (see map on page 278) - From the North Stack approach, walk up the track and follow it to its end at the North Stack Light House. Abseil off the telegraph pole - 50m ropes required. Many of the starts of the routes are tidal, and the routes at the left-hand end can only be accessed for a few hours around low tide. Guidebook page 280.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Talking Heads
A decent mid-grade route, which definitely requires a low tide. Start under the crack of Nice 'n Sleazy. Traverse left just...
 
2 Stars
E2 5b
2
Nice n' Sleasy
A pleasant route that heads up the faint groove/crack. Start beneath the crack, which is climbed easily at first until it...
 
1 Stars
E1 5a
3
South Sea Bubble
A great route taking the compelling hand-crack. Start down and right of the main crack, and move up to an overlap, make a...
 
2 Stars
E3 5c
4
The Long Run
The first of the North Stack frighteners. The gear is plentiful compared to other routes, yet none of it is inspiring enough to...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
5
The Cad
A serious route, that is popular nonetheless. It had bolt runners in the past which were removed, but a single stub still...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6a
6
Blue Peter
A scary route that has a steep start and a delicate and committing upper groove. Start below the right-hand side of an...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
7
Green Gilbert
The easiest route out of this zawn, and although friable it is a reasonable escape route. Start at the right-hand end of the...
 
1 Stars
Loose
E1 5a