Zig-Zag Area

Adjacent Areas
< The Quarry  |  None >

Trad
Sun and Shade
45 mins
Up and Down
Tidal

The lower walls at Blackers Hole have a good mixture of routes, although most have unstable exits.
Approach - A short scramble down from the left side of the quarry (looking out) leads to a wave-cut platform.
Tides - Most of the routes start from a non-tidal ledge below the wall. The final four routes need low to mid-tide.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Zig-Zag
The top of the second pitch of this climb is reported to be in a very dangerous state. Start at the foot of a diagonal...
7 user comments
 
Loose
VS
2
Parallel Lines
A nice, but run-out pitch on good, compact rock. Start 3m right of the diagonal crack of Zig Zag. Climb as directly as possible...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS
3
Credit in the Straight World
A good, bold wall climb right of the slab. Start 7m right of Zig-Zag, at an alcove. Climb the left-hand side of the alcove,...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
4
Absence Makes the Heart...
An enjoyable wall climb starting at a rib to the left of the roof stack. Climb the rib and a short groove to a ledge. Ascend...
 
1 Stars
E3
5
Street Fighting Years
A mighty challenge tackling the triple-roof-stack head on. The hardest roof at Swanage and possibly 7a. It is well...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E7
6
Full Circle
Another sizeable roof test-piece through the right-hand side of the cave. Good gear on the crux, but bold elsewhere.1) 6c,...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E7
7
A Dose of the Malhams
Climb the dramatic prow, then move through a 3m roof to the lip. Swing left and pull up flakes to the break. Belay on the left...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E6
8
Sport Free World!
A long line out of the right-hand side of the cave that may have been altered by rockfall. Start as for A Dose of the Malhams....
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E3
9
Mr Fantastic Totally Stroptastic
Start on a raised ledge at 2m. Climb straight up and over a small overhang at half height. Use cracks above to climb the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
HVS
10
Rufty's Roll Up
A pleasant pitch away from the crowds. Start from the right-hand side of a raised ledge at 2m. Climb the lower wall, past a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1
11
Tobacco Road
Varied climbing on good rock. Start at the same point as Rufty's Roll Up. Head rightwards and up two vertical cracks to a ledge...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS
12
Snout
A strange first pitch requiring a whole variety of techniques. Start at a recess 8m right (looking in) of the left-hand...
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
13
The Vapour Edge
Nicely situated climbing. Start below the arete, and climb it easily to a ledge at 15m. Trend rightwards and ascend a thin...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1
14
Parsons Pleasure
1) 4a, 15m. Climb the arete a short way, then move right to a corner and follow this to a sloping belay ledge.2) 4c, 15m....
 
1 Stars
VS
15
Havana
Quality climbing throughout, including a technical crack up a flying headwall on the right. Well protected. Follow a direct...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4
16
The Equalizer
Climb an easy flake (peg), then pull right over a roof (2 threads). Climb the desperate layback-seam past a peg to a ledge.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6
17
Centrepiece
A great test-piece taking the dominating central line. Climb past a thread into a pod, then make desperate moves up the calcite...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
E5
18
Not Forgotten, No Fade Away
Similar in quality to Centrepiece, but more difficult to protect. Climb a direct line through the bulges and up the smooth face...
 
2 Stars
E5