Adjacent Areas
< The Quarry | None >
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
45 minsTidal
Windy
The lower walls at Blackers Hole have a good mixture of routes, although most have unstable exits. Guidebook page 332.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Zig-Zag The top of the second pitch of this climb is reported to be in a very dangerous state. Start at the foot of a diagonal... 7 user comments | Loose | VS 4c |
2 |
Parallel Lines A nice, but run-out pitch on good, compact rock. Start 3m right of the diagonal crack of Zig Zag. Climb as directly as possible... | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 5a |
3 |
Credit in the Straight World A good, bold wall climb right of the slab. Start 7m right of Zig-Zag, at an alcove. Climb the left-hand side of the alcove,... | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E4 6a |
4 |
Absence Makes the Heart... An enjoyable wall climb starting at a rib to the left of the roof stack. Climb the rib and a short groove to a ledge. Ascend... | 1 Stars | E3 6a |
5 |
Street Fighting Years A mighty challenge tackling the triple-roof-stack head on. The hardest roof at Swanage and possibly 7a. It is well... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E7 6c |
6 |
Full Circle Another sizeable roof test-piece through the right-hand side of the cave. Good gear on the crux, but bold elsewhere.1) 6c,... | 2 Stars Strong Fluttery | E7 6c |
7 |
A Dose of the Malhams Climb the dramatic prow, then move through a 3m roof to the lip. Swing left and pull up flakes to the break. Belay on the left... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E6 6b |
8 |
Sport Free World! A long line out of the right-hand side of the cave that may have been altered by rockfall. Start as for A Dose of the Malhams.... | 1 Stars Technical | E3 5c |
9 |
Mr Fantastic Totally Stroptastic Start on a raised ledge at 2m. Climb straight up and over a small overhang at half height. Use cracks above to climb the... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | HVS 5b |
10 |
Rufty's Roll Up A pleasant pitch away from the crowds. Start from the right-hand side of a raised ledge at 2m. Climb the lower wall, past a... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
11 |
Tobacco Road Varied climbing on good rock. Start at the same point as Rufty's Roll Up. Head rightwards and up two vertical cracks to a ledge... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | VS 4c |
12 |
Snout A strange first pitch requiring a whole variety of techniques. Start at a recess 8m right (looking in) of the left-hand... | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
13 |
The Vapour Edge Nicely situated climbing. Start below the arete, and climb it easily to a ledge at 15m. Trend rightwards and ascend a thin... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E1 5b |
14 |
Parsons Pleasure 1) 4a, 15m. Climb the arete a short way, then move right to a corner and follow this to a sloping belay ledge.2) 4c, 15m.... | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
15 |
Havana Quality climbing throughout, including a technical crack up a flying headwall on the right. Well protected. Follow a direct... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E4 6b |
16 |
The Equalizer Climb an easy flake (peg), then pull right over a roof (2 threads). Climb the desperate layback-seam past a peg to a ledge. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E6 6b |
17 |
Centrepiece A great test-piece taking the dominating central line. Climb past a thread into a pod, then make desperate moves up the calcite... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | E5 6c |
18 |
Not Forgotten, No Fade Away Similar in quality to Centrepiece, but more difficult to protect. Climb a direct line through the bulges and up the smooth face... | 2 Stars | E5 6b |
