Main Face

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun and Shade
0 mins
Roadside
Sheltered

Rising above the parking is a fine wall of vertical quarried limestone that is seamed with thin cracks and coated with patches of flowstone. Approach (see map on page 363) - Open the car door and you are there.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mogadishu
The furthest left set of bolts gives a pleasant introduction to this section of the quarry.
 
1 Stars
4c
2
More Than This
From the second bolt on Mogadishu take the groove on the right to an overlap before moving right to the lower-off of The...
 6a
3
The Outsider
The thin slab to the left of the crack of Finale clipping the same bolts.
 
Technical
6c
4
Finale
The crack has a high first bolt and is also a touch run-out above.
 
Pumpy
5a
5
School Mam
Good climbing up a thin crack and wall in the left-hand slab. Start left of the tree.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a
6
Cakewalk Direct
The slab starting just left of a triangular recess. At the roof make a stiff pull to finish.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
7
The Cakewalk
An old hybrid which is now an independent direct line. Follow the thin slab above the recess to reach a right-facing corner at...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
8
Route 3
Probably the best route on the wall offering excellent sustained climbing. Start just right of the recess and follow the white...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
9
Route 2
Another fine slab route up the long white streak.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a
10
Route 1 Top 50
One of the classic routes of its grade in the whole of the area. It follows the magnificent organ-piped encrusted arete with...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5a
11
Cross Winds
The line up the left-hand side of the steep section of wall with one very tough sequence.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
12
Driving the Dumper
The same start as for Cross Winds but pull right over two overlaps.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
13
Solid 6
Climb up past the first overlap and join Driving the Dumper at the second overlap.
1 user comment
 
Technical
7a
14
Fuel Injected
A hideous boulder problem style climb featuring three bolts and one nightmare section. Double glue-in bolt lower-off.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
15
Secret Garden
Start just up the corner and make hard moves up left before moving back up and right to finish.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
16
Green Fingers
From a ledge a short way up the corner climb past widely spaced bolts to the lower-off of Secret Garden.
 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For CASTLE INN QUARRY

    Route 3
    "Changed from 6a ** to 6c ***, 0% of 3 votes for 6c, 0% of 3 votes for ***" 11/Oct

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