Over the Moon

Adjacent Areas
< Dutchman's Zawn  |  Statement of Youth >

Sport
Morning sun
8 mins
Downhill
Tidal
Seepage
Sheltered

The showpiece hard sport climbing crag of Wales is the central bulging section of Lower Pen Trywn. The grades here start at 7c+ and go all the way up to 9a. With the difficulty level so high here, conditions become crucial. In still and humid weather the wall can be greasy and in such conditions becomes unclimbable. The best conditions are often found when it is fresh and with a light breeze blowing. Approach (see map on page 347) - The routes are centred around the most severely overhanging section of the cliff. Mid-to-low tide is required to get to the base of the routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Melancholie
Sustained crimping up the blank white wall gains I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy at the end of its traverse. Crisp conditions make a...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
8b
2
I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy Top 50
The entry level introduction to the steepness at Lower Pen Trwyn, which has a bit of everything including - a bouldery start,...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
3
Pas de Deux
An intense direct finish to I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy which involves basic cranking on crimps and crozzles that are becoming...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a+
4
Mussel Beach
The easiest 8a of the lot. There is a rest after the first bulge followed by a tricky crux in the middle section before...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
5
Parasite
Despite its name (so named because it lives off other routes), this is a great route that is better and harder than Mussel...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
6
Battle of the Little Big Orme
A mega pitch that has three very different ways of climbing the crux. After fighting through the middle bulge and a leftward...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a
7
Over the Moon
The original and best route up this section of the cliff, which finishes grappling with the striking finger-crack after...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a
8
Over the Moon Direct
The left-hand finish to Over the Moon is perhaps a touch easier and has become more popular as it involves basic pulls on...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
8a
9
Moonwalk
A bit squeezed in but surprisingly independent and a useful route at this grade. There are two cruxes; getting through the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
8a+
10
The Walking Mussel
A superb direct line into the crack of Over the Moon, involving a bouldery start (easier than it looks) and a heinously awkward...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b+
11
Sea of Tranquillity
A very cruxy route with a hideously powerful sequence on disappointing slopers, which are currently the toughest moves on the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
8c+
12
Liquid Ambar
Jerry Moffatt's ultimate power-endurance route of the 20th Century, which remains a sought-after tick. The steep middle section...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8c+
13
The Big Bang
The direct finish to Infanticide which ventures straight up the blank grey wall, past the point where the holds run out. A...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
9a
14
Infanticide
By no means just a The Big Bang cop-out, as this is the logical line of least resistance leading to the amazing finish of...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8c