Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Up and Down
25 minsAbseil
Windy
Restricted Access
The first section of Guillemot West is close to the base of the abseil approach and rises dramatically to the summit of Valkyrie Buttress. There is a number of relatively popular routes and some harder ones - all have their fair share of poor rock and unstable finishes. Guidebook page 314.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Caiaphas An adventurous route with a good bottom pitch. Start at a short corner 3m right of a huge pillar that leans against the... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy Loose | E3 5c |
2 |
Deaf Mosaic The blank white face right of Caiaphas.1) 6c, 25m. Climb direct as for Caiaphas to a horizontal break beneath the wall.... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy Loose | E6 6c |
3 |
Valkyrie The huge corner is a major feature of the cliff but has a very loose top pitch. Not recommended. Start beneath the... | Loose | VS 4b |
4 |
Be-Bop-Deluxe The right wall of Valkyrie's first pitch, has open face climbing on mostly solid rock. The upper pitch is looser and airy but... | 1 Stars Loose | E2 5b |
5 |
Valkyrie Buttress Direct A nice route with a fairly sound finish. Start at a steep wall below a big roof in the middle of the seaward face of Valkyrie... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | HVS 5a |
6 |
Zo Zo An impressive climb for the grade that has an excellent first pitch, but finishes on some poor rock, requiring care.1) 4b,... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy Loose | VS 4b |
7 |
No Mistaking Climb straight up black pocketed rock, past an angular chockstone in a horizontal break to a thread. Pass the thread on the... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
8 |
Mistaken Identity A nice little route on good rock and with a relatively solid finish. Climb up the left side of the black overhang and continue... 3 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4c |
9 |
True Identity A good but forgotten route. Start as for Mistaken Identity. Follow Mistaken Identity until just passed the roof. Move right... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
