West Face - Right

Trad
Lots of sun!
25 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Restricted Access

The first section of Guillemot West is close to the base of the abseil approach and rises dramatically to the summit of Valkyrie Buttress. There is a number of relatively popular routes and some harder ones - all have their fair share of poor rock and unstable finishes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Caiaphas
An adventurous route with a good bottom pitch. Start at a short corner 3m right of a huge pillar that leans against the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
E3 5c
2
Deaf Mosaic
The blank white face right of Caiaphas.1) 6c, 25m. Climb direct as for Caiaphas to a horizontal break beneath the wall....
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Loose
E6 6c
3
Valkyrie
The huge corner is a major feature of the cliff but has a very loose top pitch. Not recommended. Start beneath the...
 
Loose
VS 4b
4
Be-Bop-Deluxe
The right wall of Valkyrie's first pitch, has open face climbing on mostly solid rock. The upper pitch is looser and airy but...
 
1 Stars
Loose
E2 5b
5
Valkyrie Buttress Direct
A nice route with a fairly sound finish. Start at a steep wall below a big roof in the middle of the seaward face of Valkyrie...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
HVS 5a
6
Zo Zo
An impressive climb for the grade that has an excellent first pitch, but finishes on some poor rock, requiring care.1) 4b,...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
VS 4b
7
No Mistaking
Climb straight up black pocketed rock, past an angular chockstone in a horizontal break to a thread. Pass the thread on the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
8
Mistaken Identity
A nice little route on good rock and with a relatively solid finish. Climb up the left side of the black overhang and continue...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
9
True Identity
A good but forgotten route. Start as for Mistaken Identity. Follow Mistaken Identity until just passed the roof. Move right...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For GUILLEMOT LEDGE

    Tensor II
    "8/4/14 - Nice and straightforward with good gear and plenty of holds. a stiff sh..." 09/May top50

    True Identity
    "Good value route with nice face climbing high up and decent gear." 17/Sep

    Batt Crack
    "BIG WARNING! Great first pitch - until the 'good belay ledge'. I think a fair..." 26/Jul top50

    Ledgend Direct
    "First HVS lead. Great route, loads of bomber gear with just a couple of awkward ..." 22/Oct

    Tensor II
    "Lovely committing moves left under the roof on undercuts, and no sign of the san..." 15/Aug top50

    The Spook
    "Great route but the guidebook is confusing about where to go on the second pitch..." 14/Jun top50

    Ledgend
    "There has been a rockfall in the corner just below the faultline on pitch 1. It'..." 16/Apr

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