Upper Tier

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
25 mins
Up and Down

The Upper Tier of Main Cliff offers some great climbs in a sea cliff setting, but without all the crashing waves and tidal issues. The routes here are generally good although a lot of the rock is covered in green lichen which can be off-putting on the less-frequented climbs. The more popular routes though tend to follow well-gardened paths. In general the climbing still requires a degree of respect, and some loose rock can be present. Approach (see map on page 278) - From the racking up spot, you need to scramble down the steep gully to reach a narrow and hair-raising path across the base of the cliff. For Emulator head down the Main Cliff approach. Traverse the top of the cliff rightwards and head above the racking-up spot to a descent gully and cut back along the approach path to your bags.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Park Lane/Doomsville
A good combination which is less sustained than The Strand, however the crux is short lived and technically harder. Start as...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
2
The Strand
A great route, the most popular on the Upper Tier. The climbing is sustained and feels tough for the grade, although the gear...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
3
Central Park
A great route, that is well worth a look if The Strand and Park Lane/Doomsville are occupied. The route gains the wide crack in...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
4
Fifth Avenue
The groove up the right-hand edge of the Central Park wall. Start in the chimney formed by the left edge of the pinnacle.1)...
 
2 Stars
E1 5c
5
Winking Crack
The striking cracks in the towering wall. Sadly the approach pitch is far from classic but the final crack is worth the effort....
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
E3 5c
6
The Cruise
Excellent protection ensures the popularity of this fine crack. It has been attempted more than once in mistake for its...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E5 6b
7
Run Fast, Run Free
Very sustained and pumpy, although the pump may be due to the number of runners you have placed! Start just left of the deep...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
8
Bloody Chimney
A totally traditional experience, and the line on the topo indicates the position of the cleft rather than the position you'll...
 
2 Stars
HVS 4c
9
Bezel
A good route that takes the curving groove-line where two buttresses meet. Start below the corner. 1) 4b, 15m. Move up to...
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
10
Barbarossa
Start directly below a line of pockets in the middle of the wall. The route originally had a prominent protruding peg, but it...
 
3 Stars
E7 6b
11
The Eternal Optimist
Good steep climbing with an enigmatic crux. Start below a crack, close to the left-hand end of the crag, just right of Bezel's...
 
2 Stars
E2 5b
12
Strike
A good route, which is relatively straightforward for the grade - although it is steep, and a little bit of a pump-fest. Start...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
13
Fail Safe
The wall left of Energy Crisis. Powerful climbing with some long reaches and a difficult exit from the top of the first pitch....
 
2 Stars
E2 5b
14
Energy Crisis
A strenuous route with a fine sustained first pitch. Start beneath the right-hand of two wide cracks a little left of The Ramp....
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E5 6a
15
The Ramp
This one finds a reasonable line up through an impressively steep section of rock. Start below a pinnacle that marks the start...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
16
The Gauntlet
A tough route, that is sustained and hard to read, with only just enough gear on the first pitch. Start in a shallow groove,...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a