Upper Tier

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
25 mins
Up and Down

The Upper Tier of Main Cliff offers some great climbs in a sea cliff setting, but without all the crashing waves and tidal issues. The routes here are generally good although a lot of the rock is covered in green lichen which can be off-putting on the less-frequented climbs. The more popular routes though tend to follow well-gardened paths. In general the climbing still requires a degree of respect, and some loose rock can be present. Approach (see map on page 278) - From the racking up spot, you need to scramble down the steep gully to reach a narrow and hair-raising path across the base of the cliff. For Emulator head down the Main Cliff approach. Traverse the top of the cliff rightwards and head above the racking-up spot to a descent gully and cut back along the approach path to your bags.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Park Lane/Doomsville
A good combination which is less sustained than The Strand, however the crux is short lived and technically harder. Start as...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
2
The Strand
A great route, the most popular on the Upper Tier. The climbing is sustained and feels tough for the grade, although the gear...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
3
Central Park
A great route, that is well worth a look if The Strand and Park Lane/Doomsville are occupied. The route gains the wide crack in...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
4
Fifth Avenue
The groove up the right-hand edge of the Central Park wall. Start in the chimney formed by the left edge of the pinnacle.1)...
 
2 Stars
E1 5c
5
Emulator
The clean groove is longer than it first appears, and gives fine sustained climbing where route-finding isn't a problem.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
6
Winking Crack
The striking cracks in the towering wall. Sadly the approach pitch is far from classic but the final crack is worth the effort....
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
E3 5c
7
Imitator
Another nice route and, if combined with Bezel, provides a long way up the cliff. Start just to the right of Emulator.1)...
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
8
The Cruise
Excellent protection ensures the popularity of this fine crack. It has been attempted more than once in mistake for its...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E5 6b
9
Aardvark
A tough pitch. Start 5m to the right of Imitator, below the centre of the wall. Move diagonally left across the wall on good...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 6a
10
Run Fast, Run Free
Very sustained and pumpy, although the pump may be due to the number of runners you have placed! Start just left of the deep...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
11
Bezel
A good route that takes the curving groove-line where two buttresses meet. Start below the corner. 1) 4b, 15m. Move up to...
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
12
Bloody Chimney
A totally traditional experience, and the line on the topo indicates the position of the cleft rather than the position you'll...
 
2 Stars
HVS 4c
13
The Eternal Optimist
Good steep climbing with an enigmatic crux. Start below a crack, close to the left-hand end of the crag, just right of Bezel's...
 
2 Stars
E2 5b
14
Barbarossa
Start directly below a line of pockets in the middle of the wall. The route originally had a prominent protruding peg, but it...
 
3 Stars
E7 6b
15
Fail Safe
The wall left of Energy Crisis. Powerful climbing with some long reaches and a difficult exit from the top of the first pitch....
 
2 Stars
E2 5b
16
Strike
A good route, which is relatively straightforward for the grade - although it is steep, and a little bit of a pump-fest. Start...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
17
Energy Crisis
A strenuous route with a fine sustained first pitch. Start beneath the right-hand of two wide cracks a little left of The Ramp....
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E5 6a
18
The Ramp
This one finds a reasonable line up through an impressively steep section of rock. Start below a pinnacle that marks the start...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
19
The Gauntlet
A tough route, that is sustained and hard to read, with only just enough gear on the first pitch. Start in a shallow groove,...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a