Gribin Facet Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
20 mins
Windy

A nice crag which is easily reached but still has a mountain atmosphere. It can stay damp after rain, especially the steep crack routes on the left. The crag is notorious for sandbagging grades so leaders beware, although we have re-assessed some of the routes here. Approach (see map on page 183) - Take the main path from Ogwen Cottage to Llyn Idwal. Head back up a grassy ridge to reach the crag. Avoid the temptation to walk up before this as the area below the crag is very boggy. For routes on the left and centre there is a gully that leads down through the middle of the cliff. This is reasonable until a final steep step where inexperienced climbers and the nervous will opt for a short abseil from a well-used block. For routes on the right, follow the top of crag down and right into a gully to just above the drystone wall where you can traverse back below the crag. Guidebook page 184.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Insidious Slit
Start by a steep slab that leads up to triple overlaps. Move up the slabs and step left into the crack where it curves left....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
2
Yob Route
A nice route although quite tough, just remember it used to get VS. Start by a left-trending ramp.1) 5a, 40m. Head left up...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
3
Llyn
The deep groove is compelling. Start just right of Yob Route. 1) 4c, 40m. Head up rightwards to gain the steepening crack...
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
4
Diadem
A sustained and desperate affair and not to be confused with the wide weeping crack just to the right, which is Sweet Sorrow...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
5
Slab Climb
A pleasant excursion up a hanging slab which has some good exposure considering the size of route. Start below a gully that...
 
2 Stars
D
6
Monolith Crack
Practically ungradable, it will be impossible for the claustrophobic. Start below a deep slot that runs up and left across the...
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HS ?!
7
Zig-Zag
A good route that requires large hexes or cams. Start just right of Monolith Crack.1) 4b, 15m. Ascend the square corner to...
 
2 Stars
HS 4b
8
Flake Crack
A belter of a route if you like things a little bit traditional. The wobbly flake prompted Kirkus to say "The prospect of...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
9
Herford's Crack
Indian Creek comes to Ogwen. Take the incredible hand-crack just right of Flake Crack to its top. If you can't jam then you...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a