Adjacent Areas
< West Face - Right | East Face - Ledgend Direct Area >
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
25 minsAbseil
Windy
This is a justifiably popular section of cliff. With its easy access, good lower to mid-grade routes and clean-cut quarried finishes, it is a perfect place to sample the delights that Swanage has to offer. The routes are a bit shorter than on the neighbouring West Face, and many have a friendly feel to them. Guidebook page 316.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Outside The Wire The line of the abseil. Climb up to twin cracks via the arete or the chimney (easier). Pull up into the cracks with difficulty,... | Loose | E1 5b |
2 |
Exit Chimney Two - The Sequel Climb past a roof crack, then make bold moves up flakes to a mid-height roof (thread). Follow twin leaning cracks to the... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 6a |
3 |
Sapphire A much-attempted route that features a spectacular and powerful top pitch. Start beneath a huge rectangular depression that... 10 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | E1 5b |
4 |
The Spook Top 50 A sustained, varied climb and one of the best E1s at Swanage. Start under a prominent, smooth-sided corner.1) 5a, 18m.... 12 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E1 5b |
5 |
Toiler on the Sea Good, clean climbing. Start at the arete right of The Spook.1) 6b, 18m. Serious. Follow the arete to the roof (peg and... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6b |
6 |
August Angie Sustained, nervy climbing. Start at the groove right of the arete.1) 5b, 25m. Take the groove to the roof then traverse... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E1 5b |
7 |
Necromancy Technical and bold wall climbing up the committing face 5m right of August Angie. Move up and pass a break in the roof. Trend... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 5c |
8 |
The Heat A big pitch with quality moves but little gear. Start beneath a large roof at 15m.1) 5c, 15m. A short wall leads to a ledge... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 5c |
9 |
The Big Heat A logical direct version of The Heat. Climb the serious lower wall then press on (2 pegs) up the face left of the arete, in a... | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 6a |
10 |
Mañana A worthwhile and slightly bold outing with good rock on the hardest climbing. Start below the large overhang.Climb the... | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 5a |
11 |
Funeral Pyre Unprotected where it matters. The line follows the wall 8m right of The Heat, and 5m left of the corner of Tensor II.1) 5c,... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery | E5 5c |
12 |
Tensor II Top 50 One of the very best VSs at Swanage. Both technical and sustained, but furnished with good protection. Start at a raised ledge... 9 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | VS 5a |
13 |
Strapiombo A direct corner and crack climb starting as for Tensor II. Follow a corner past a spike and peg to pass a big roof on the... 8 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
