East Face

Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
25 mins
Up and Down
Abseil

This is a justifiably popular section of cliff. With its easy access, good lower to mid-grade routes and clean-cut quarried finishes, it is a perfect place to sample the delights that Swanage has to offer. The routes are a bit shorter than on the neighbouring West Face, and many have a friendly feel to them.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Outside The Wire
The line of the abseil. Climb up to twin cracks via the arete or the chimney (easier). Pull up into the cracks with difficulty,...
 
Loose
E1 5b
2
Exit Chimney Two - The Sequel
Climb past a roof crack, then make bold moves up flakes to a mid-height roof (thread). Follow twin leaning cracks to the...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
3
Sapphire
A much-attempted route that features a spectacular and powerful top pitch. Start beneath a huge rectangular depression that...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
4
The Spook Top 50
A sustained, varied climb and one of the best E1s at Swanage. Start under a prominent, smooth-sided corner.1) 5a, 18m....
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E1 5b
5
Toiler on the Sea
Good, clean climbing. Start at the arete right of The Spook.1) 6b, 18m. Serious. Follow the arete to the roof (peg and...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
6
August Angie
Sustained, nervy climbing. Start at the groove right of the arete.1) 5b, 25m. Take the groove to the roof then traverse...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
7
Necromancy
Technical and bold wall climbing up the committing face 5m right of August Angie. Move up and pass a break in the roof. Trend...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 5c
8
The Heat
A big pitch with quality moves but little gear. Start beneath a large roof at 15m.1) 5c, 15m. A short wall leads to a ledge...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 5c
9
The Big Heat
A logical direct version of The Heat. Climb the serious lower wall then press on (2 pegs) up the face left of the arete, in a...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
10
Mañana
A worthwhile and slightly bold outing with good rock on the hardest climbing. Start below the large overhang.Climb the...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
11
Funeral Pyre
Unprotected where it matters. The line follows the wall 8m right of The Heat, and 5m left of the corner of Tensor II.1) 5c,...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 5c
12
Tensor II Top 50
One of the very best VSs at Swanage. Both technical and sustained, but furnished with good protection. Start at a raised ledge...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
VS 5a
13
Strapiombo
A direct corner and crack climb starting as for Tensor II. Follow a corner past a spike and peg to pass a big roof on the...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
14
Helen's Return
Nice climbing, however the gear is a bit fiddly on the lower wall. Start below the wall right of the corner of Tensor II. Make...
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
15
Ledgend
A popular but wandering outing. Start below a big flake-crack in a steep wall 60m east of the abseil (right - looking...
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
HS 4b
16
Graffiti Bombers of New York City
Start below a large thread. Boulder up to the thread and climb straight over a bulge to a blunt arete. Climb the arete, passing...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
17
Ledgend Direct
A popular route up a gear-packed corner 9m right of Ledgend that gives exhausting climbing. It has taken a lot of scalps over...
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
18
Vampire Direct
A well-positioned pitch. Start just right of Ledgend Direct. Climb directly up the leaning arete to meet a crack in the arete....
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
19
Batt Crack Top 50
A popular route. Start just right of Ledgend Direct.1) 4c, 18m. Climb a short wall to a ledge, then move up rightwards to...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
20
Friends from the Deep
An eliminate with an absorbing first pitch. Start just right of a chimney in an arete, 8m right of Ledgend Direct.1) 5c,...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
21
Yellow Belly Wall
A fine, hard eliminate on Yellow Wall. Follow a shallow groove, left of the normal start, past a bulge. Continue more easily to...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
22
Yellow Wall
Fine wall climbing on the initial pitch, rounded off by a challenging top pitch. Start just left of a big...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E1 5b
23
Robud
A good, but indirect line. Start below a big groove/corner.1) 5a, 20m. Climb the corner/groove and move to the right-hand...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
24
Younger Days
The prominent arete 8m right of Yellow Wall. Start 3m right of the arete and climb easily until the arete steepens. Layback its...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For GUILLEMOT LEDGE

    Tensor II
    "8/4/14 - Nice and straightforward with good gear and plenty of holds. a stiff sh..." 09/May top50

    True Identity
    "Good value route with nice face climbing high up and decent gear." 17/Sep

    Batt Crack
    "BIG WARNING! Great first pitch - until the 'good belay ledge'. I think a fair..." 26/Jul top50

    Ledgend Direct
    "First HVS lead. Great route, loads of bomber gear with just a couple of awkward ..." 22/Oct

    Tensor II
    "Lovely committing moves left under the roof on undercuts, and no sign of the san..." 15/Aug top50

    The Spook
    "Great route but the guidebook is confusing about where to go on the second pitch..." 14/Jun top50

    Ledgend
    "There has been a rockfall in the corner just below the faultline on pitch 1. It'..." 16/Apr

    Ledgend Direct
    "Climbed this lovely route in the sun today. Nice bottom pitch. Very well protect..." 20/Feb

    Warlord
    "similar experiences to above, plus the fact that it was only about 4 degrees yes..." 01/Feb top50

    Sapphire
    ""Only" 5a - but every move is 5a. A full body workout. You have to tr..." 14/Sep

    Strapiombo
    "I have climbed the hanging groove in the arete between Strapiombo and Tensor II...." 10/May

    Batt Crack
    "I climbed it for my third time last weekend. Maybe I'm getting old, maybe I was..." 06/May top50

    Sapphire
    "***The important peg under the roof has now completely gone*** You now need to ..." 07/Apr

    Warlord
    "i thought this was pretty full on for E4. The top is hard, and you're pumped. ..." 10/Mar top50

    Yellow Wall
    "Thoroughly enjoyable with interesting features, especially the hands-free rest w..." 04/Mar

    Yellow Wall
    "The wedged block forms the stance for the belay, so that's still there I think. ..." 01/Mar

    Sapphire
    "I found getting round and under the roof, via the barely existent peg, pretty sc..." 01/Aug

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