Scratch Area

Adjacent Areas
< Two Face Buttress  |  Strangeways Buttress >

Trad
Lots of sun!
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

A magnificent angular buttress with a set of classic corners, cracks and aretes. The base of the buttress (hidden in the trees on the topo) has some sloping vegetated slabs in places that are awkward to navigate. Approach (see map on page 228) - From Eric's Cafe walk along the road towards Tremadog village, to a path up through scree, just past the Snowdonia National Park sign. Head up to the left-hand edge of the scree where a faint path branches off through the trees arriving at the crag below Scratch. Either abseil from trees at the top of Barbarian - two abseils necessary if you are on 50m ropes, or you can reverse scramble the lower section if you are confident. Alternatively head up and left to a path that descends a steep gully back to the base of the crag. It is also possible to abseil down Scratch Arete in two abseils.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Strapiombo
A mighty chimney with moves to match, it can feel anywhere between HVS and E3 depending of your chimneying abilities and the...
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 5b
2
Poor Man's Peuterey Top 50
A popular route in a good position. Start at the base of a groove with 'PMP' etched on it.1) 27m. Climb the groove for 4m,...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
S 4a
3
Monkey Puzzle/Pincushion
A fantastic route and the easiest way up this iconic slab. Start beneath the big corner of Barbarian, below a tree.1) 4b,...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E1 5b
4
Pincushion Top 50
A route of contrasts - it has roofs, slabs and cracks, wide bits, thin bits and blank bits. Start beneath the corner of...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 6a
5
Silly Arete
A brilliant line. Immaculate climbing in a sensational position with more protection than you might think, but still very...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
6
Fingerlicker
Steep and fierce finger-jamming on pitch one, but perhaps not as hard as its reputation suggests. Start below the big corner of...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
7
Barbarian Top 50
The huge corner gives great climbing. Start below the corner.1) 10m. Scramble up to the tree below the slab.2) 4b, 15m....
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
8
Scratch
A delicate, easier route that is justifiably popular. Start below the big groove of Barbarian.1) 10m. Scramble up to the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
9
Spare Rib
A stunning and alarming route, making up the trilogy of hard aretes on this crag. Start by the ladder to the right of the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
10
Rhych dy Din
An indifferent start but a good top pitch on this immaculate wall. 1) 4b, 25m. As for Scratch P1 and 2.2) 5b, 30m....
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5b
11
Scratch Arete Top 50
The right-hand arete of the buttress gives a fine climb with a stopper crux. Start at a rib where the approach path arrives at...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
HVS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For TREMADOG (PANT IFAN)

    Vulcan
    "Changed from E3 6a *** to E4 6a ***, 50% of 2 votes for E4" 11/Oct

    Barbarian
    "2nd to Dr John 1993 ish, stupidly hard at top overhang, felt sick." 28/Dec top50

    Silly Arete
    "Oh yes, RIGHT onto the arete at the bottom!" 15/Dec

    Silly Arete
    "A tricky move left ???. I think you mean right" 02/Aug

    Pincushion
    "eh? E2 5c with a 6a pitch? Definitely not 6a. You just got to trust your feet. ..." 07/Jul top50

    Mistook
    "Did this route last Saturday 24/04/10. According to the CC Tremadog Guide, the r..." 26/Apr

    Pincushion
    "Harder than Silly Arete" 11/Mar top50

    Poor Man's Peuterey
    "The groove with 'PMP' on it is the start of Borchgrevinck - the original PMP sta..." 11/Mar top50

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